28 MEN’S GROOMING
Simple and clean men’s formulations
Tatyana Tabakman, Edward Bartholomey - Kobo Products
In this article we will divide formulations for men into three groups. The formulations are green and clean, have short lists of ingredients, feel moisturising and lightweight, and are easy to apply and remove. ■ Group 1. Personal hygiene products such as antiperspirants and deodorants, fragrances, soaps and body powders. ■ Group 2. Shaving products, including shaving soaps, creams and lotions that are used before, during and after shaving to smooth, soothe and nourish skin. ■ Group 3. Skin care products such as, face, neck, body and hand creams and lotions, facial cleansers and wipes, facial exfoliators or scrubs, mud packs and lip balms. All of the formulations were made to target specific skin issues experienced by men, such as uneven skin tone and discoloration, dry, oily, sensitive and acne prone skin, visible pores, wrinkles and fine lines (signs of ageing). What is the male population looking to see
in formulations? Men are actively searching for products that are made specifically for them, have good quality, are affordable, easy to use, fragrance-free, and leave no residue after application.
Group 1: Aluminium-free deodorant stick Traditional deodorants often incorporate aluminium compounds which can irritate the skin. Vegan and cruelty-free options may offer additional appeal to consumers and there is a lot
more to consider beyond whether a deodorant works. The selected ingredients and principles were taken under consideration when the following formulation was developed. Formulation 1 is a typical anhydrous formula
and process. Combine all liquid ingredients and mix them together while heating without creating air bubbles, sprinkle waxes slowly and melt until clear, taking care not to overheat the waxes. Add jojoba ester-treated zinc oxide and silicas. Mix together until powders are fully wetted. Lastly, add preservatives and pour hot base into deodorant stick components. This clean deodorant formula is aluminium-
free and does not contain baking soda, which has a high pH and is often used as a replacement. The formula is fragrance-free, very smooth, sheer and does not leave any white residue. The key here is the synergy between the two silica grades, a wide distribution particle size spherical silica with moderate oil absorption (119g/100g), which provides the creamy and light payoff, and a high oil absorption silica (490/100g), which helps keep the skin dry and odor free throughout wear. The silica blend absorbs sweat and persipitation, helps to gel the liquids and keeps the underarm area dry. The formula process for Formulation 2 is
similar to other loose powders formulations. Pre-blend powders and spray liquid binder phase slowly until powders are covered evenly. This simple but functional formula is made
with a yellow iron oxide and mica blend which cuts redness after an intense workout. It also
FORMULATION EXAMPLE 1: UNISEX NATURAL DEODORANT STICK (KFL-255)
Ingredients (INCI)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Zinc Oxide (And) Jojoba Esters Octyldodecanol
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters Silica
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (And) Tocopheryl Acetate (And) Bisabolol
Silica
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil Beeswax
Caprylyl Glycol PERSONAL CARE Februray 2022
Amount (%) 27.60 15.20 7.00
6.90
6.00 3.00
2.00 2.00 0.40
16.00 12.90 1.00
ABSTRACT
The demand for men’s grooming products continues to grow as more and more men are starting to care about their personal look. The most popular products are for hair and skin and there has been an increase in demand for new formulations since men’s skin and hair requirements are different and unique. Male grooming formulations must deliver quick and multi- beneficial results and the formulas must be simple. We will provide an overview of simple and clean formulations for beard care, after shaves, facial moisturisers and cleansing products made with Kobo’s portfolio of skin moisturisers and nourishing complexes, microspheres, effect pigments, natural scrubbing beads, a sugarcane based humectant and charcoal powder.
contains calcium silicate, a high oil absorption material, and a skin nourishing complex of argan oil, tocopheryl acetate and bisabolol which add anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties. Stearoyl glutamic acid surface treatment is based on amino acid derivative which can be found in the skin.
Group 2: Products for moustaches & beards Men are paying more attention to their beads, moustaches and overall appearance. In men’s personal care, the new trend is for them to keep their facial hair shorter, cleaner and tidier. Similar to the hair on our heads, it is important to create special shampoos and conditioners for men’s beads and moustaches. The use of beard oil is an excellent way to keep beards feeling soft. There are also beard balm formulations available which can be used to keep straggly hairs in place and add healthy shine.
Conditioning of facial hair For Formulation 3, combine the two fumed silica gellants with a mixer until homogeneous and begin heating to 75°C. Add the PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl laurate, sorbitan trioleate, and tocopherol at 50°C. At 60°C slowly add the PEG-8 beeswax and tribehenin PEG-20 esters to the mixture. Continue heating to 75°C until the waxes are melted and the solution is homogeneous. Add the bronze mica powder and
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