18 SKIN CARE A BEFORE AFTER 3 MONTHS BEFORE AFTER 5 MONTHS
100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%
3 weeks 6 weeks Brown spot area 3 weeks 6 weeks Normal area
Figure 3: Fullerene brightening test Note: A – Before and after face photographs of two Asian volunteer participants: one in her twenties (three months later) and one in her fifties (five months later). B - L-value representing the brightness of the face
was obtained from the facial photographs of the volunteers and graphed. The L-value values three and six weeks after fullerene application indicate that the brightness of both the normal area and the brown spot area was improved.
effect through the removal of intracellular ROS of keratinocytes. However, it does not exhibit visible photocatalytic cytotoxicity in HaCaTs.3
Xiao et al.
demonstrated a UVA-induced melanin formation inhibitory effect of PVP/fullerenes through the down-regulation of tyrosinase expression in human melanocytes and skin tissues. The effects of liposome-fullerene (fullerenes
wrapped in liposome) incorporated into liposome consisting of hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterols were investigated.4
Degradation of
Type I and IV collagen, DNA strand breaks and pycnosis (or nuclear breakdown) were observed in vertical sections of UVA-irradiated skin models visualised by fluorescent immunostaining or Hoechst 33342 staining. The liposome alone had little effect. However, these forms of skin damage were significantly suppressed by 250 ppm liposomal fullerenes containing 0.75 ppm C60
. to C60
When 12 ppm liposome-fullerene (equivalent ) is administered to a human abdominal
skin biopsy mounted in a Franz diffusion cell, C60 penetrates the epidermis at 1.86 nmol/g tissue
(1.34 ppm) after 24 hours. Although the application and dilution rates were both nine times, C60
was
not detected in the dermis by HPLC.5 UVA irradiation of HaCaT keratinocytes
increased intra-cellular ROS by NBT assay and decreased cell viability compared to no irradiation. However, liposome-fullerene restored ROS reduction and cell survival. In HaCaT cells
administered with liposome-fullerene C60 (150 ppm), C60
concentration of 1.4-21.9 ppm for four to 24 hours, and intracellular C60 C60
was mainly distributed outside the
nuclear envelope without degrading intact cell morphology, according to fluorescent immunostaining. Therefore, it was concluded that liposome-fullerene is an effective antioxidant that can protect HaCaT keratinocytes from UVA-
PERSONAL CARE February 2022
was ingested at an intracellular was 2-10% for 24 to 48 hours.
induced cytotoxicity and can serve as a cosmetic for skin protection against UVA.6 A cream containing 1% fullerenes/squalane
was evaluated in clinical trials for anti-wrinkle cosmetics. It enhanced skin moisturisation and wrinkle prevention effect. When applied to the face twice daily, it was ineffective after four weeks. However, it was significantly more effective than placebo after eight weeks and had no serious side effects, suggesting that it can be used as an active ingredient in wrinkle care cosmetics.7 PVP/fullerenes localised in the cytoplasm
prevented the UV-induced DNA fragmentation and activation of the transcription factor NF-kB. PVP-fullerene was developed as a UV protectant with a DNA-preserving effect due to the ability to combine cytoplasm and cell membrane molecules. It suppressed oxidative stress in cells and blocked abnormal signal pathways.8 Liposome-fullerene exhibits sustained
hydroxyl radical scavenging activity and cell protection in UVA- and UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. It has long-lasting antioxidant capacity and is expected as a skin protectant against oxidative stress.9 Fullerene C60
prevents UV irradiation and TiO2
-induced cytotoxicity on keratinocytes and 3D-skin tissue. It effectively protects cell membranes from peroxidation and is thus an antioxidant for removing the TiO2
ROS on the skin surface. This should improve the function of the TiO2 Fullerene C60
also reportedly promotes the
differentiation of keratinocytes and enhances the skin barrier function.11
Uses in cosmetic dermatology Laser cosmetology is increasingly popular, but laser burns can both generate ROS and exacerbate pigmentation. ROS in turn can
photocatalytic -containing sunscreen.10
increase the expression of the inflammatory marker COX-2 mRNA, but laser-induced COX-2 expression was significantly suppressed by the antioxidant activity of fullerenes (Figure 2). In addition, image analysis of human skin
shows that fullerene gel inhibits erythema- related redness caused by laser-induced inflammation. Thus, we can conclude that laser- induced inflammation is suppressed by the ROS- removing activity of fullerenes and that fullerene application is effective against oxidative skin damage caused by laser irradiation. Fullerenes also have potential as aftercare therapies following laser irradiation.12 The photoprotective effect of PVP/fullerenes
was investigated. UVB irradiation significantly induced the inhibition of keratinocyte proliferation and only the presence of fullerenes encapsulated in PVP prior to UVB irradiation suppressed this. UVB irradiation also reduced the proportion of cells with keratinising envelopes and transglutaminase-1 expression. The application of PVP/fullerenes reversed this phenomenon. It significantly promoted recovery of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) two and three days after tape-stripping. Thus, PVP/fullerenes can be used in cosmetics aimed at protecting light damage, especially in sunlight and laser treatments, and improving the perturbation of the skin barrier.13 The antioxidant capacity and whitening
effect of PVP/fullerenes in vitro have both been evaluated extensively. Ito et al. carried out a study to verify the performance of PVP/fullerenes and compare them with the performance of other major antioxidants.14 A method for measuring the oxidation of
beta-carotene was devised as an index for evaluating the antioxidant capacity of fullerenes. The results showed that PVP/fullerenes can inhibit lipid, hydroxyl, and superoxide radicals. Tests on
www.personalcaremagazine.com B L-value increase
0-1 ■ 1-2 ■ 2<■
Percentage of patients that L value improved
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