22 MEN’S GROOMING
Men or women: Creating dedicated products
Lorraine Denois, Skin Care Market Manager - Seppic
The arrival of COVID-19 has slowed the anticipated growth of the market for men’s grooming products. However, this market, which was worth €41.2 billion in 2020,1
is projected
to double by 2031 with an annual growth rate of 8%.2 As men use more and more products in
their beauty routine, brands should focus on what they need. There are real physiological differences between men’s and women’s skin. In terms of ageing and other needs, men’s skin has it’s own specificities and must therefore be treated differently from women’s.
Male skin specifics The first difference between male and female skin is the thickness of the epidermis, which exceeds 60 µm for men and barely reaches 50 µm for women. Men secrete ten times more testosterone than women and this increases sebum production, thus exposing male skin more easily to blackheads, outbreaks of acne and shine. Meanwhile, oestrogen, a female hormone, slows down sebum production and has a moisturising effect, making women’s skin softer, smoother and more supple. With a relatively oily skin and a tendency to
sweat more, men tend to prefer fresh and light textures. Young male skin needs oil-free, non- greasy, non-comedogenic textures. Moisturising and treating oily skin is the main concern of 16 to 34-year-old males. The eye contour should not be forgotten
and men will be quite receptive to products presented as being ‘anti-fatigue’. In their routine for oily skin with dilated pores, we can suggest using purifying and antibacterial serums, masks or even weekly scrubs with salicylic acid. With age, the thicker hydrolipidic film in men
helps to protect the skin from drying out. In addition, the male dermis is richer in collagen and the decrease in its renewal over time is slower than in women. These two factors slow down the ageing of the skin. Men will therefore suffer less quickly than
women from the impact of time on their skin, such as wrinkles, fine lines, sagging of the dermis, etc. Nevertheless, once the skin ageing process has begun, it evolves much more quickly in men than in women. Then, men are more affected by a loss of muscle mass and sagging skin, which in turn are associated with puffy eyes and dark circles that make them look tired. Their wrinkles appear later than in women, but once visible, they are deeper.
PERSONAL CARE February 2022
Sepinov WEO / Sepimax Zen Formula
1% / 0% Aspect
Aqua/Water Sepinov WEO Sepimax Zen Preservative Opacity
Jelly effect Sensorial assessment
up to 100 1.00 –
0.15 4/5 0/5
Quick break
Figure 1: Modulating texture & transparency in formulation Creams and lotions for men should be more
of a serum or gel-cream consistency that feels lightweight. Past the age of 35, men are also concerned about drying skin out, so avoiding ethanol could be wise and moisturising actives should be considered in in men’s grooming products. Pre-ageing and skin vitality
TABLE 1: WATER-SAVING FOUR-IN-ONE SHAVING FORMULATION
Phase A
INCI
B C D
Aqua/Water Montanov 82 Emogreen L19 Solagum AX Sepimax ZEN Aqua/Water Aquaxylt
Contacticel Fragrance/Parfum
Phenoxyethanol - Ethylhexylglycerin
Sepicalm S WP Propanediol
Amount (%) up to 100 5.00 4.00 1.00 1.00 5.00 3.00 1.00 0.20
1.00 3.00
5.00
0.5% / 0.5% up to 100 0.50 0.50 0.15 0/5 1/5
Non-aqueous
1% /1%
up to 100 1.00 1.00 0.15 3/5 2/5
Non-aqueous
metabolism can be a new basis for products claims. Past 55, treating the signs of ageing will be their main concern.
Choose the right texture As men generally want light textures, gels, cream-gels and light emulsions can be good options for them. Polymers allow formulators to create such textures, which are non-sticky with a nice, aqueous, quick-spreading effect on the skin and a soft after-feel. Whether because of ageing skin or if men
have a sensitive, dehydrated skin - for example as result of shaving – it is possible to modulate the richness of the formulation. A 50-50 mixture of Seppic’s Sepinov™ WEO and Sepimax ZEN™ will change the texture so that it becomes richer and less quick-spreading (Figure 1). Natural emollients are perfect allies when
it comes to achieving comfortable emulsions without the greasy finish that some natural oils can have. Formulators have the choice of a large range of raw materials, depending on the playtime they want: a short one for an evanescent touch, a medium one for a gliding touch or a longer one for a comfortable after-feel.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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