HEALTH & BEAUTY AROUND TOWN See the with Chris Moody of Moodyhair
In our last article, we wrote about the different types of hair colour product we can use to make our hair ‘whisper, talk or shout.’
The safest, most subtle type of ‘whisper’ colour being temporary colours, followed by those semi- permanent colours that ‘talk’, lasting slightly longer and requiring a skin test, ending with permanent or oxidising colours that will create the longest lasting change or ‘shout’. There is a fourth type of colour product, although technically it’s not a hair colourant as it doesn’t add anything, in fact it only takes away. Known in the hair industry as a de- colouriser or lightener, you may know it as bleach.
These products use strong
chemicals such as alkali, ammonia and hydrogen peroxide to shatter and dissolve natural and artificial hair pigment. They are always permanent, changing the shade and condition of your hair, and will always leave some type of root re-growth. They contain no commonly known allergens and you do not require a skin allergy test; however, you will require an allergy test should you need a toning colour afterwards. From subtle, sunkissed highlights to icy whites and platinum blondes, in the right hands, lighteners can be used to create stunning results with minimum impact on hair condition. But a word of caution: in the wrong hands, hair can end up patchy, canary yellow or even broken and blistered. This type of hair colouring product is not to be trifled with and we would strongly urge that any work be carried out by a fully trained hair professional.
There are no shade guides for lighteners and it’s difficult to accurately predict what the hair will do.
Hair contains two primary pigments: one is dark, browny red and the other is paler and more yellow. As the product begins to lighten the hair it takes away these pigments a little at a time, starting with the darkest first. The warmer or more yellow the pigment is, the harder and longer it will be to remove.
If you have any old colour on
your hair, the product has to get through that before it can start on your natural pigment, which is why applying lighteners to very dark or black coloured hair can often result in a muddy rainbow of greens, reds and yellows.
The most difficult pigments to remove are red and yellow, which is why lightened hair can often appear
orange or bright yellow.
Everyone’s hair will lighten and show yellow - every time! The protein your hair is made of, keratin, is pale yellow in colour, so your hairdresser cannot remove yellow by lightening alone. Your hair will dissolve before the yellow goes away.
Lighteners are best used to create a lighter base in hair, which a professional colourist will then formulate a corrective toner to create the final colour.
Violets neutralise yellow and leave a cleaner shade, while blues neutralise orange and leave a slightly more ash finish. Gold and violet together can leave a softer beige tone, or reds and yellows result in copper tones. You’ll need allergy tests for all these toners. As always, go and visit your professional colourist and book a consultation. Explain your goals and listen to their advice.
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