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TRAVEL


019


BE AWARE


AIRBNB IS A WELL-RUN OPERATION BUT THERE ARE THINGS WORTH KEEPING IN MIND. • You may not always get what you see online, so do research, ask the owner questions and, of course, look to reviews from previous guests. • When searching, note Airbnb imposes a number of additional fees (service charges can be as high as 20%).


THERE ARE NOW ALL SORTS OF PLACES, SOME 30KM OR MORE FROM HERE THAT ARE SUDDENLY KNOWN AS AMSTERDAM


• Some cities (New York, Paris) are signifi cantly restricting or considering banning rentals altogether in central areas. • Finally, any independent travel denies you the support – should something go wrong – you get when booking through a travel agent or tour operator.


pastries piled high beneath a cellophane tarpaulin.


That evening, on Elandsgracht


– suffi ciently off the trail to see the tourist throng taken down a level – the bars are busy, spewing drinkers onto pavements along which an assortment of cyclists, pug and schnauzer-walking locals and lovers sauntering by in the pleasantly mild evening. In need of refreshment from a day pounding the pavements – my FitBit displaying an impressive 21,000 steps – we happen across Bar Olendhof. We nearly didn’t…the few chairs scattered across the street outside in an uninviting mish-mash do little to say “come on in”. Like an Aladdin’s cave of tempting sundowner treats, however, the interior is an exquisite surprise and it takes a


while for the eyes to adjust from the midsummer light to the warm, inviting autumnal hues within. Dark mahogany panelled walls frame leather tub chairs and velvet sofas, the soft green lighting casts shadows on a looming stag’s head and tasteful chandelier, while lilting jazz plays at a level more than conducive to a conversation between friends. “In winter, the curtains are drawn, the door’s closed and you have to ring the bell,” the young English waitress tells us adding, after my enquiry, “Oh no, I couldn’t live in London again.” We eat at Rakang (rakang. nl), a superb Thai restaurant that’s become a favourite of mine over the years. The setting is apt – my friend is a professional Muay Thai (Thai boxing) fi ghter and is in town training ahead of an


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