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97 Ios port.


cliff path to the holy monastery of Panagia Hozovi- otissa, an amazing structure built into the cliffs 300 metres above the sea. Built in 812AD, the monastery is a maximum of five metres wide and eight storeys high at one point. It has 15 cells for monks but today just three live there. Sailing west along the coast of Amorgos we visited the M.V. Olympia which has lain shipwrecked in Ka- lotaritissa Bay since February 1980 and was featured in the French Film Le Grand Blu. We anchored in total seclusion in the long narrow inlet of Ormos Akrotiri which lies in a steep sided valley, watching the full moon rise over the hill at night and in the morning waking to the gentle tinkling of goat bells and whistles from shepherds corralling their herds upwards. It seemed we had stepped back in time. Another storm was due so we headed back to the


safety of Katapola Bay. While moored off the quay a Greek skipper managed to snag his anchor in the chains of two yachts moored alongside Leonie. None of the crews seemed to know how to untangle the mess and the Greek skipper, in his 70s, was preparing to dive nine-metres down to try and wrestle his chain free. Carl came to the rescue, advising the moored yachts to run their engines to keep themselves off the quay while releasing the tension on their chains so the


Greek skipper could winch his up. Carl climbed into our dinghy and chugged over to the Greek skipper, advising him to winch his chain high enough to attach a rope around the two snagged chains so he could release them and bring in his anchor. All went to plan and Carl received a relieved ovation from the harbour side yachts. Snagged anchors is a common enough occurrence in the sailing world. When the meltemi finally abated we set forth for


Ios and passed a shipwrecked yacht which had come a cropper during the high winds of the past few days when it collided with a low lying rock just past Katap- ola Bay. The four days before the arrival of yet another meltemi


were spent at peaceful anchorages before we headed for shelter in the busy, noisy port of Ios into which 12 big ferries surge every day to drop off passengers. The wind caused quite a stir on our pontoon; ma-


noeuvrability was compromised and with yachts com- ing and going there was a lot of shouting going on. On the storm’s fiercest day waves crashed over Leo-


nie’s deck and the bay foamed with white horses as the wind whistled down through the valley. Little did we know less than three weeks later we were to experi- ence the worst storm to hit the islands in 75 years, but that’s another story...


Church at the Chora.


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