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A Greek couple stop for a rest outside the church at the Chora.
fruit but she declined our offering, shaking her head sadly and rubbing her tummy with a soft, low moan. Perhaps she was suffering from an overdose of figs. While snorkeling later I saw a huge loggerhead turtle
resting in sea grass on the seabed. I circled above it marvelling at its size and beauty then carried on explor- ing. After a time I swam back and came across the turtle again lying in the same place as still as a gecko basking in the sun. I watched it for a bit then swam off. As I turned my head for one last look the turtle began to rise, slowly paddling up towards the light. I cautiously followed at a distance and we broke the sur- face at the same time. Our eyes met across the water as it opened its mouth for a deep breath of air and I heard the funny sighing sound turtles make when they fill their lungs with oxygen. We repeated these synchronised swimming manoeuvres a few more times then the turtle complet- ed its circle and gently swam back to its underwater den. In gentle winds we headed over to the nearby island of Koufinisia sailing among close lying islands. The scenery was beautiful under the bright azure sky and
Old windmills, Chora, Amorgos
Carl at the Holy Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa.
peaceful with just us and a few other yachts out at sea. On the south west corner of the island we anchored in a small bay and snorkeled in an amazing underwater seascape of sheer cliffs, caves and high smooth rocky plateaus. A heavy swell was rolling in so we scooted around
to the main harbour, Epano, to top up Leonie’s water tanks and wander around the Chora. En route to the island of
Amorgos we nearly turned around and headed straight back to Epano when we found ourselves battling against a heavy swell and a strong wind in the channel between Kou- finisia and the north east end of the uninhabited island of
Koros, where towering cliffs loomed over Leonie.
We persevered through and once past the south east tip of Koros were rewarded with a wind in our favour and a cracking sail straight into Katapola Bay. There we jumped on a bus and wound up into the
hills to the chora; full of tiny churches, whitewashed houses, picturesque old windmills and pretty little squares where leafy green trees shade cafe patios. Af- ter coffee in one of them we walked along the rugged
Sunset, Ormos Katapola, Amorgos
Lefkas canal as it enters the Inland Ionian Sea
Even bus drivers need a siesta!
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