95 POSTCARD BY GINNY WARE


Washing day at Epano, Koufonisia. T


AFTER LIVING ABOARD ON THE RIVER DART FOR EIGHT YEARS, GINNY WARE AND HER HUSBAND CARL SET SAIL IN 2013 FOR FRANCE AND BEYOND. HERE IS THE LATEST FROM THEM AS THEY CONTINUE TO EXPLORE THE MEDITERRANEAN ON THEIR 65 YEAR OLD 35FT YACHT.


HE stamina of the meltemi, a strong north wind, varies from year to year in the Cyclades. This summer it surpassed itself.


Storm dodging became a way of life as we sailed


around this cluster of islands in the southern Aegean Sea. It seemed every port or anchorage we visited had to provide good shelter from the ferocious wind which blew incessantly for days and days at a time. We kept a closer eye than ever on the weather


predictions seeking out brief periods between blows to make headway to the next sheltered anchorage, harbour or island. After being holed up in Paros for 15 days the wild wind finally eased enough for us to escape to the island of Schinoussa. It gathered strength along the way giving us an exhilarating sail for the last couple of hours of the voyage. We anchored off a sandy beach in Livadi Bay where I spent the first full day of our new- found liberty in bed with a migraine.


I helmed Leonie for much of the


sail to Schinoussa and a firm hand was required. She sails beautifully in strong airs but keeping her steady to the wind involves muscle power. My biceps are stronger than they were but this long spell at Leonie’s tiller, especially after sitting idly in port for two-weeks, physically took its toll and the tension in my shoulders left a thumping headache in its wake. Carl walked up to the small chora (main town) on


top of the hill and returned with some lifesaving Neu- rofen and a handful of fresh figs an ancient, black-clad local widow had bestowed on him after he stopped for a ‘chat’ (well nods, smiles and sign language as she couldn’t speak English and Carl doesn’t understand much Greek). The next day my headache was gone and we strolled up to the chora for a coffee. There the widow was sat outside her tiny grocery shop and we approached offering bakery biscuits in return for the


Looking across to Kato Koufonisia from Schinoussa


from Leonie


Goats, Schinoussa


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