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restaurant review twenty_seven by Jamie Rogers
F
or wine lovers, the carefully curated list at Jamie Rogers’
restaurant twenty_seven in Kingsbridge offers classic and innovative pairings but our choic- es were particularly appropriate complements to the cuisine and character of this young, exciting chef, mirroring Jamie’s own style, entrepreneurship (surely you can guess why that name?), and vision of what he can achieve with food. And what food! The presenta-
tions, beguilingly beautiful with real depth under the foam. The combinations, imaginative; the re- sults, accomplished. The principles by which he operates, sound and sustainable. His commitment and dedication unquestionable but, above all, it is his love for what he does which explodes through every mouthful. With Dan, his talented sous, whose artistry and finesse is matched only by Jamie’s, this kitch- en produces divine creations which, despite their ethereal quality, leave you satisfied; hardly-there micro touches delivering far above their ‘weight’; nothing extraneous on the plate nor jarring on the palette.
Su’s Cepaccino Soup, her “most
enjoyable mushroom experi- ence” (this from someone with a basket of freshly foraged funghi in her kitchen). Dense, not earthy; silkily smooth, with ‘bite’; rich, not overpowering. Incredibly light
“this kitchen produces divine creations which, despite their ethereal quality, leave you satisfied”
potato foam, crispy pattata – quirki- ly elegant touches. Even without soup, do order bread - Onion and
WRITTEN BY AMANDA BLOOMER
Parmesan Loaf with light-as-air, gently tongue-tingling horseradish butter a delight. For me, a masterclass in taste and
texture; an artfully constructed plate of amuse-bouche delicacies where the whole was so very much more than the sum of its parts. Deceptively simple, the complex and delicate preparations of that mild, sweet child of turnip and waterchestnut; the Queen of goat’s cheese; crispy polenta and my favourite of all pear varieties – Kohl- rabi Samosa with Williams Poire, Vulscombe Goats Cheese, Truffle Honey and Polenta. My gently pulled local lamb was
served en croquette attended by a mélange of hearty (smoked pump- kin) and light (sweetcorn salsa) veg- etables in well balanced propor- tions. Elegant but oh- so-satisfying, seemingly never ending succulent lamb tumbling out of its crispy case to meet sweet and smoky, sticky and smooth, freshness. Su’s perfectly cooked just-yield- ing Hake nestled under a creamy smooth tropical ‘curry’ sauce – sufficiently flavoursome to justify its presence, light-handed enough to allow the glorious seafresh taste
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