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IN SEASON


'Free-From' Baking W


You can still have your cake and eat it, even without gluten, dairy or sugar...


hether you have a need to eliminate gluten or are trying to avoid refi ned sugar, Barbora Ormerod from the Devilled


Egg Cookery School explains how simple it is to make ingredient swaps when it comes to baking without the compromise.


T e proliferation of ‘free-from’ ingredients has made things much easier for those with allergies, intolerances and other dietary proscriptions. T e problem is that we are easily prejudiced when it comes to food. Popular substitute ingredients are oſt en mocked as quackery, or at best regarded as the inferior imitation of another, more mainstream foodstuff .


T ere’s no reason why those with regular dietary requirements cannot also benefi t from the interesting fl avours, textures and other properties of ‘free-from’ ingredients. Wholegrain spelt or buckwheat fl our, for instance, add a real depth of fl avour, while non-dairy milk and butter oſt en result in a more interesting product which stays fresh longer. It’s all about context.


WHEAT SWAPS


TRY: CORN - RICE – BUCKWHEAT – CHESTNUT - COCONUT


T e simplest option here is to buy a mixed gluten-free fl our, as these combine several alternative fl ours to emulate the behaviour of ordinary wheat fl our. Cakes or bread made with just one type of alternative fl our will present properties which you may not expect if you are


new to this. Pre-mixed fl ours are designed for beginners who just want a gluten-free version of a standard recipe.


If you are ready to experiment, start with simple recipes and 2-3 alternative fl ours to familiarise yourself. People are oſt en stunned at what can be achieved with corn, rice, potato, chestnut or buckwheat fl our, particularly when coupled with xanthan gum to restore some of the ‘stretch factor’ provided by gluten. A useful trick when working from wheat fl our recipes is to mix ground nuts into the fl our to add moistness (substituting around 20% of fl our for ground almonds or other nuts) and adding extra liquid.


DID YOU KNOW? Chestnut fl our is fantastic for sponge


cakes as it is light and rises well, but has the texture to support itself.


SUGAR SWAPS


TRY: BANANA – VEGETABLES – MAPLE SYRUP – COCONUT SUGAR


T e most straightforward sugar alternative is defi nitely coconut sugar, as it behaves in a very similar way to refi ned sugar. A more imaginative route is to use the natural sugar of fruit purée, ripe banana or cooked mashed sweet potato, parsnip or carrot to add sweetness. T ese all work well in combination with ground almonds to create a moist yet crumbly cake texture.


Maple syrup has a famous and distinctive fl avour of toff ee and is a naturally occurring, rather than refi ned, carbohydrate. Everyone


knows it is great on pancakes, but it can be extremely useful in cooking and baking as well. Try using it in recipes which call for the melting method, such as sponges or sticky toff ee pudding.


T e quantity can generally be reduced when swapping sugar for syrup, because of the latter’s rich, pronounced fl avour. If you are keen to cut back on refi ned sugar, start with pancakes or breads and try replacing it with a combination of mashed bananas and maple syrup. Just remember that sugar, refi ned or otherwise, should be used sparingly.


DAIRY SWAPS


TRY: RICE MILK – CASHEW MILK – COCONUT MILK - AVOCADO


Milk has probably given rise to more alternative products than anything else. Crucially, the fat content in these alternatives can vary enormously, making them behave quite diff erently. For example, rice milk is low in fat whereas cashew milk is particularly rich and works much better in recipes where full fat milk is traditionally called for. T e thick, creamy consistency of coconut milk makes it perfect for sauces, soups and custards - so long as the coconut fl avour works for you.


When it comes to butter substitutes, avocado is your best friend. It is suitably fatty and its gentle, neutral fl avour works well in place of butter or cream to create a fudge-like eff ect. Simply blend the avocado fl esh with the appropriate ingredients. Avocado can also be used in baking instead of butter, producing a big crumb, spongy texture and a lasting moistness.


FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 25


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