After all, how could I write about a city that I am so partial to,without appearing as if I’m showing favoritism?
Then, somewhere along the Pennsylvania Turnpike between the Somerset and Bedford exits, it hit me: I’ll become a tourist in my own town.
Translation: First, I’ll clear my mind (as much as I can) of what I know and under- stand to be the very crux of what makes Philly,well,Philly. Instead, I will go in as an outside meeting planner, someone look- ing for the best the city has to offer, but having no preconceived notions.
Also, I will refrain from spilling the beans and telling my hosts about what I am up to; I’ll walk amongst tourists occasionally looking lost. Instead of moving from PointsA to B,like I normally do in Philly,I’ll meander and try to stump my city-savvy
sensibilities.And,most of all – when I see a visitorwho’s strugglingwith amapwhile yelling at his wife, “The Independence Seaport Museum is that way!” (while pointing in the wrong direction) – I will not step in and play the concierge, as is my nature. No, Mr. Lost Tourist and I are now on the same hapless playing field…
So, let the tour begin! Checking In: Penn’ s Room with a View -
Located in Philly’s Old City section and lit- erally mere blocks from Independence Hall – America’s Birthplace – the charm- ing, boutique Penn's View Hotel offers 51 well-appointed rooms,most having a stun- ning view of the Delaware River and the twinkling lights and the soaring span of the blue-painted Benjamin Franklin Bridge. Seeing the welcoming coach lanterns by the front door and the inti- mate front desk, I am glad to be in an unassuming, independent hotel for a
change.The Sena family has operated the Penn’s View for generations, maintaining its reputation as a place of respite for tourists and business travelers alike.
The five-story property is a warren of refined gatherings: several small- to mid- sized meeting and banquet rooms prevail here; theWine Cellar is just that - an Old- World, subterranean enclave - perfect for
66 January February 2015
private events and holding the Sena’s Wine Spectator-awarded collection.
Those hundreds upon hundreds of bottles are served upstairs at Panorama, a land- mark Italian restaurant. I’ve been here before and enjoyed viniferous selections from its 120 wines-by-the-glass cruvinet pouring system(one of the world’s largest wine dispensers); I didn’t realize, though: here amid the ruddy red-brick walls and archways and bordello-red velvet booths – this place hops early in the week, even in wintertime.
My hotel roomis spacious and it has been recently updated as is obvious by the gleaming white marble bathroom and fresh, new textiles and furnishings. Looking out my window, I can almost touch the bridge that’s just beyond…
High Street onMarket: Eggs Over Chicly -
I certainly know Fork, the Old City restau- rant that has amassed vast culinary acco- lades (2014 “Best New Chef”/Food & Wine), but I’ve never stepped foot in owner Ellen Yin’s new project next door, called High Street on
Market.This is Fork’s more casual neighborhood spot - a break- fast through dinner nook featuring arti- sanal breads and farm-fresh organic egg dishes and hearty, homey breakfasts, along with pots of roasty java from Rival
Bros.coffees.For lunch and at dinnertime, High Street takes on amore casual,yet no- less dedicated, approach to hand-crafted, locally-inspired fare and libation.With my morning eye-opener here, I’ve discovered thatOld City has as vibrant a life-of-its-own in the
a.m.as it does at nighttime.
I, Tourist -
I trek a few block west over to the very hub of the Historic District by 5th and Chestnut streets. On one corner is Independence Hall. I can see the famed Liberty Bell situated in its safekeeping pavilion across the way. I then do what a zillion others have done before me – I take out a map and scratch my head quizzically like a true tourist.
In no time flat an enthusiastic salt-of-the- earth sort (he identifies himself as “Lou from Two Street”) asks me if I need help
When we arrive back at Independence Mall, I amnot only impressed by the infor- mation instilled byWill along this tour, I’ve seen street signs and sculptures, houses and historical properties that I had never noticed before.
“We the People…” –
Party with George Washington - and Thomas Jefferson - and the rest of the other Founding Fathers’who attended the Constitutional Convention, as all 42 are represented in lifelike bronze statues in
finding anything.“Uh,
yeah.Do you know where I can locate the Big Bus?”“Sure!” Lou says confidently.“You see that horse and carriage? Now look past it.You see that great big, red bus..?” He’s not being sarcastic. I can tell he really means to help.
I thank Lou and as he walks away he gives me a salute.“Hey,enjoy your visit.Welcome to Philly.” If this were a half-dozen other major American cities, instead of a saluta- tion, I would have gotten an open palm expectant of a tip.
Score one point for the common man on the street.
Bright Lights/Big Bus –
“Philadelphia was founded, first and fore- most, on religious freedom.”This is the Big Bus tour guide,Will, an aspiring history major/grad student who knows this town much better than I do.“Over there is Christ
Church.That stonemarkswhere Benjamin Franklin is laid to rest. Do you see all of the pennies the visitors throw on top of it? They do it in honor of Ben’s saying, ‘A penny saved is a penny earned.’Well, the church earns over four thousand dollars a year in pennies!”
The tour is ultra-informative and it really takes in so many key points of interest: Elfreth’s Alley (the oldest continually- inhabited street in America); Dilworth Plaza by CityHall and its newskating rink; Chinatown.We pass by the Philadelphia Zoo (“America’s oldest”) and drive by the palatial Fairmount Hall, home of the Please Touch Museum and a bastion for large-scale private and corporate events.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84