city profile Istanbul - Culture in abundance - destination, says Sarah Kiddle T
he high frequency of fl ights between the UK and Istanbul is testament to this eclectic, buzzing city’s ever-increasing popularity as a city break
Aya Sofya (Hagia Sofi a) A church (turned mosque, turned museum!) with an interior made breath- taking by dint of its glorious domed ceiling and a mystique conferred by the healing properties of its ‘weeping column’.
Topkapi Palace A chance to peek into the opulent, scheming world of the Sultans and concubines of the Ottoman era – you’ll fi nd colourful historical characters and architecture on a grand scale.
Ferry Up The Bosphorus Active day-trippers and armchair tourists alike enjoy awe-inspiring cityscapes with the benefi t of a sea breeze. If you wish, disembark and explore at stops on both the Asian and European sides.
Istanbul, or Constantinople as it was once called, is often dubbed the gateway to the East. Straddling two continents – both culturally and geographically – gives the city a dual personality, with the mystique of the east and the hip vibes of the west. In the historic Sultanahmet district the famous sights are both Christian and Muslim, with nods to Greek mythology. The majestic calm of the holy buildings and ancient palaces sits alongside the hubbub of sound and movement in the colourful bazaars. This traditional way of life, including haggling for goods, continues all over the city. Meanwhile, a modern, vibrant lifestyle fl ourishes in the city, as demonstrated by the plethora of uber-stylish restaurants, fashion boutiques, art galleries and night clubs. Nearly 100,000 people joined Istanbul’s Pride march last year, making it the largest Gay Pride march in Eastern Europe and proving that the city is part of a new, more tolerant and modern Turkey.
Dates for the diary
Istanbul’s original International Festival has aimed to showcase excellence in all branches of the arts since 1973, but has since burgeoned into niche festivals for different disciplines. Whatever your passion, extra spice is added by the atmospheric, beautiful venues including
the serene Aya Irini, an ancient Byzantine church with exceptional acoustics. You can fi nd festivals and competitions for fi lm (April), theatre (every two years in May), dance (ballet in June, contemporary in October), and music (classical, opera and jazz are all represented in June/July). And for those who simply enjoy bargain hunting, there is even a Shopping Fest, lasting 40 days and 40 nights, in which participating shops stay open late and offer special discounts, while music and street shows provide extra entertainment.
Eating
Walking across the Galata Bridge – whether in the bustle of the day, or as the sky darkens and the majestic silhouettes of the city appear – visitors will need to negotiate their way between the hundreds of fi shermen plying their trade. After crossing to the Old City side, visitors can sample the fi shermen’s catch in one of the freshest, simplest and most satisfying sandwiches they’re ever likely to taste. And if they’re feeling brave, tell them to supplement it with a traditional drink of şalgam, a bizarre blend of water, the juice of salted, pickled black carrots and turnips plus boiled, pulverized bulgur wheat. Sitting on upturned barrels among a rowdy
mixed crowd of locals and tourists, your clients will
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Basilica Cistern A stone forest of columns support this unearthly subterranean chamber, where submerged carvings of Medusa’s head are eerily lit by a green glow.
need a friendly smile and fi rm tone to fend off the persistent wet-wipe vendors. Their only chance is to hook them in just before a sizzling fi sh platter is served – with a wet wipe on the side! The glow of the cooking fi res visible on the gaudily gilt-painted boats bobbing in the Bosphorus, makes this rough and ready meal a high-class sensory experience. Alternatively, dine in style aboard an Ottoman-era boat docked in the shadows of a medieval fortress. Rumelihisari Iskele is an old-fashioned fi sh house also serving cold meze and raki to wash it down! •
The details
Time Zone: GMT +3 Currency: Turkish liras (TRY) £1 = 3.58 lira Visas: British nationals need a visa, which can be purchased ($20) online up to three months in advance or issued on arrival in Turkey. See:
goturkey.com/en/city/detail/istanbul
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