This page contains a Flash digital edition of a book.
74


river cruising


India cruise review A sacred river - An immersion in culture, religion and politics - R


iver cruising is the ideal way to approach


an exotic destination. India, for example, has traditionally been seen as challenging for the nervous traveller. The Assam Bengal Navigation Company has the answer says Richard Williams


With one boat on the Ganges and two on the Brahmaputra rivers in northeast India, it is an excellent way to see the 'real' up-country India and immerse yourself in the country's culture, food, religions, and politics. The cruising season runs from August to April,


avoiding the extreme heat of the summer and before the monsoon rains. The ideal time to visit is probably October/November or February/ March. The second week of March pitches you into the Holi festival, when everyone is out on the streets throwing coloured dyes at each other – to be enjoyed or avoided as you prefer. The Ganges cruises usually go from Patna down


GUJARAT


to Farakka and then from Farakka to Calcutta, taking six days each. You also have the choice of taking the eight-day cruise upstream. There is an alternative cruise upstream from Patna to Varanesi. As India's sacred river, the Ganges is a good starting point for fi rst-time visitors to the country. Its wildlife is fascinating, with geese, ducks, storks, egrets, and kites vying for your attention


PRADESH


JHARKHAND ODISHA


INDIA


KERALA TAMIL NADU


Banaras, Uttar Pradesh


JHARKHAND Patna, Bihar Munger, Bihar Bhagalpur, Bihar


Farakka, West Bengal Kamarpara Rd


WEST BEGAL


West Bengal Kolkata,


West Bengal Kalna, UTTER


with jackals, antelopes, buffalo, horses and freshwater dolphins. Along the way you watch from the deck as India bathes, fi shes, worships, swims, works and plays in front of you. Beside the river you see temples of all faiths: Hindu, Jain, Sikh, Buddhist, plus the occasional mosque. The best of these are included on the daily shore itineraries. Accompanied by a relaxed and knowledgeable guide, you are ferried to shore and driven by 4WD to various sites of historical, religious and cultural interest, including island temples, ancient Buddhist universities, old forts, ruined palaces, local markets, and silk-weaving centres. The guide gives a personal and colourful


commentary, and can answer all your questions. The daily briefi ng gives fascinating insights into Indian culture, for example the complex caste system, arranged marriages, the confusing pantheon of Hindu gods, Indian driving tips, and the sacred status of cows. Probably the best part of the experience is sitting on the full-length sundeck sipping Assam tea and watching the brown Ganges slipping by. Children wave from the banks, cattle come down to drink and bathe, and women do their washing. Occasionally you see smoke rising from a colourful scene on the shore, which turns out to be a family cremation – the remaining ashes to be scattered into the river. River cruising is a fi ne way to see India 'in the bubble', but you do get a chance


sellingtravel.co.uk


to see village life as well. Conditions may seem harsh, but it is certainly more peaceful than the equivalent in Delhi or Calcutta. It is intriguing that life is obviously hard, but you rarely hear any crying children. A fellow passenger said: "I enjoy the contrast of sightseeing in what can be a chaotic environment and then returning to the tranquillity and comfort of the boat. There is also the huge advantage of only unpacking once, and being well looked after. Luxury trains such as the Palace on Wheels offer a similar experience, but at twice the cost. You tend to meet more adventurous types on the river cruise." assambengalnavigation.com


A river cruise in India offers a richly varied tapestry of colours and experiences from chaos to tranquillity


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96