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mission church. Using the mizzen as 'wind
were used. I was very pleased to find these
how to handle the boat! Over the next two
rudder' she never missed a tack. The canoe
same canoes in Haddon and Hornell's
days, on our way to Watom Island, off the
men caught up with us and helped us lay
'Canoes of Oceania' showing all the same
North of the Gazelle peninsula, the wind and
out a second anchor close inshore, as usual
details and names of the parts. All was built
seas slowly decreased and the last night
the bottom dropped off steeply, making
using natural materials, including the rattan
had calm seas under a full moon.
anchoring difficult.
lashings and even the black, blue and white
paint. These canoes last about 4-5 years,
Watom Island was where the first Lapita
Soon the decks looked like a market stall
but many of the small parts and lashings are
pottery shards were found by the German
with clothes, mattresses and blankets
renewed once a month.
missionary Otto Meyer in 1911, so a
draped everywhere. Then to our surprise,
significant stop on our Lapita Voyage.
two hours later, 'Tikopia' appeared from
We spent one day in Garove, hoping the
'Lapita Tikopia' had people on board who
round the headland, motoring with the
wind and seas would go down. The next
needed to catch a plane so Klaus decided
dinghy between her bows, we had not been
day Tikopia left first, at about 10, the wind
to continue straight to Rabaul.
able to make VHF contact with them for
was still gusting strongly, so we on Anuta
over 36 hours.
prepared the boat carefully, fitted extra
Watom was a friendly little island, where
hatch ties, and ate some lunch and left early
our guide was called Pentecost, who knew
Garove is very remote as it is quite a
in the afternoon under stormsail.
all about the Lapita finds and the various
distance from mainland New Guinea, the
archaeological digs that had taken place.
people live in simple, small huts on stilts
The waves were again rough outside and
The anchorage was right in front of the
made of wood and thatching and are mainly
the wind strong. Then "bang", the starboard
original site of the finds.
self sufficient for food. The village is nestled
rudder was loose, the figure-8 knot (which
in a wooded hollow under the rocky hill on
I had made new as the rope had chafed
I again was fascinated by the canoes,
which the mission church is built, with many
during the gale) had slipped off the end of
different in shape from the previous two
huts built under the shelter of the cliff face.
the rope (lesson: leave a longer tail, don't
islands. I looked at them and said: "These
What delighted me were the beautiful sleek
cut off the old knot). We had to cut the tie
have a hull shape like the Samoan canoes,
outrigger canoes, pulled up all along the
holding the tillerbar to get the tiller out and
with a kind of 'Clipper' bow." Out came
rocky waterside. The headman, Terence,
so Matt could steer with the port rudder.
'Canoes of Oceania' and to my gratification
paddled out in one and I got a close look
Meantime we were heading straight for the
there was a description, by Otto Meyer
at the beautiful fixings of the crossbeams
shore!! Fortunately Matt was able to hold
himself, written in 1911, of how a new
and float. These canoes are about 7m (23ft)
course with just one steering paddle, even
canoe shape had been introduced from
long and very slim, with beams placed
in the large following seas. No way we could
Samoa!! Talking to the various canoe men,
close together and a sleek outrigger lashed
re-fix the loose paddle in these seas while
the names for the canoe parts are also still
on with U-shaped attachments. Terence
sailing, so we waited till we came into the
the same as in 1911.
explained how it was built by his father,
lee of the island, lowered the sail and retied
taking approx. 2 weeks, and what woods
the paddle while drifting. Another lesson in
Our final sail test was when we sailed into
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