IN SEASON
Th e Chef’s View: Making the most of your butcher
Chefs are under enormous pressure to provide the very best to their diners, so it's essential that a chef knows and trusts what he or she is buying. We spoke to Chris Cleghorn, head chef at The Olive Tree in Bath (pictured with Paul Underwood of butchers Walter Rose & Son), to fi nd out.
How do you ensure you make the most of your butcher? For me good communication is key. As with every one that supplies someone, we want to deliver the best. Cuts of meat are very classical, but every chef has specifi c details they want to suit their dish or their workloads. So. I work closely with my butcher so he knows what I want and so that I’m always using what best in that season.
What, in your view, are the best quality cuts that your butcher off ers, and how do you use them? With any good butcher there are no bad cuts, just knowing how to cook them the right way. Depending on what time of year it is, my favourites change. In the winter I like using beef cheeks and beef fi llet. In spring, the dishes we start to cook are lighter because the fl avours are fresher. One of the key products is spring lamb, I like
to use the lamb rump. Otherwise I use rose veal loin or chop, which goes with all spring ingredients.
How would you cook these cuts for your menu? T e lamb rump I like to cook on the BBQ, there’s no fl avour like BBQ lamb. T e veal loin we caramelise in a pan with butter and thyme.
Are there any tips you can off er our readers to ensure they get the best from these seasonal cuts? Make sure the lamb rump is fi rm, any sinew is removed from the fl esh and that the skin is removed from the fat. T ere shouldn’t be too much fat on the rump. With the veal make sure you’re
using rose veal, which any good quality butcher will have. Make sure that any sinew is removed to stop the meat seeming tough. T e meat should have fi rm fl esh, and be pink in colour.
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