Tried & Tested: Venice
black lacquer; and Etoile du Nord, which greets diners with wonderful floral marquetry. Having toured the train with manager Bruno Jansenns it was amazing to think how such incredible food could come from two tiny kitchens, all under the watchful gaze of chef de cuisine Christian Bodiguel, who has worked here for 30 years. There’s also afternoon tea served in the cabin
and rather divinely, breakfast is served there too upon request, so you can summon it bleary-eyed and have crispy pastries, fruit, juice and piping hot coffee within minutes to set you up for the day. Then there’s the famed decadent lobster brunch followed by a caramelized apple tartlet served during the final stretch of the journey to Calais and imminent separation from the VSOE. The train may seem frozen in time, but
changes do take place. Carriages are taken away to be refreshed every 7-10 years; new destinations are added – Berlin for 2016 for example, from June 2; the Lalique champagne bar has been created; and in the future, even Wi-Fi, duvets and air conditioning are being considered. “We do have to manage expectations a little
really,” says Jansenns. “It’s like travelling in a museum; she is a 100-year-old lady after all.”
How to book it Prices for a one-night journey from London to Venice and a two-night stay at Belmond Hotel Cipriani start from £3,130pp (March 2016 departures). This includes transfers, meals on the train, breakfast at the hotel, a walking tour of Venice and a one-way flight from Venice to London with British Airways. Prices per night at Belmond Hotel Cipriani start from £439 with breakfast. Tel: 0845 077 2222,
belmond.com
JW Marriott Venice
There are few nicer ways to spend a weekend than on a private island in the Venice sunshine. As the hordes crowd into St Mark’s Square and gondola traffic jams build up in the narrow canalways, you can be sipping an Aperol Spritz on the rooftop pool over at the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa instead. A free shuttle boat means when you’re done with the city, the Sapori Cooking Academy, 16 acres of art-filled gardens, four restaurants and the brilliant Goco spa – the largest in Venice – are just 15 minutes away. All this is packed into Isola delle Rose, along with 250 rooms and suites designed by Matteo Thun. This may once have been a hospital, but a makeover by Thun is just what the doctor ordered, providing a contemporary foil to the centuries of history oozing from the streets of Venice. The central hotel building is most obviously the former hospital with its monolithic shape, but inside, rooms are simple yet elegant and my suite had a balcony with wonderful garden views and a well orchestrated lounge area with monochrome prints of famous Venice visitors of old. A TV rotated so I could watch either from the squashy sofa or the bed, while a giant bathtub, walk-in closet and rainshower completed the offer. Other accommodations are arranged in standalone buildings that include the stylish seclusion of La Residenza; the charming rooms of Uliveto in an olive grove; the loft-style suites of La Maisonette; and the privacy of two-bedroom La Villa. Many rooms come with their own pools, but just in case, there’s also a family pool, complete with playground. There are an impressive 20 buildings on the island that have all been made use of and even a church dating from 1871 – but you will have to wait until March to see it, as the resort closes for winter. When it comes to dining, two-star Michelin chef Giancarlo Perbellini presides over the kitchen at Dopolavoro, grandly set in a standalone building where fine dining is proffered in a relaxed setting. For an even more relaxed option, Sagra is a fun, Mediterranean-style restaurant with an open kitchen and a lively menu, while at breakfast time, Cucina buzzes with action and an excellent buffet. Meanwhile there’s also grab-and-go snacks and Italian produce to buy at Dispensa; drinks to be had at Rose; and the pretty garden restaurant Giardino to sample in the summer. How to book it: Citalia offers four nights from £619pp, with breakfast and British Airways flights from Gatwick. Tel: 01293 731 392,
citalia.com,
marriott.co.uk
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Island retreat
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