All aboard R
author: April Hutchinson
oberto Senigallia, doorman at Belmond Hotel Cipriani, says he has the best job in the world. He’s not technically a
doorman really, as his welcome mat is in the open-air, on a jetty – the one that leads to the self-proclaimed “preferred hotel of movie stars, heads of state and royalty while in Venice for over 50 years”. As Senigallia waves me off in a water taxi for a meeting, he tells me I’m in one of the most stylish in Venice. “I hope so for €60,” I reply, thinking those movie stars probably wouldn’t bat a false eyelash at that sum. Venice is just that kind of place really. Where people sail from spot to spot trying to look more glamorous than George Clooney, or cram themselves into St Mark’s Square, hardly seeming to believe they are actually here. I know the feeling; it’s sensory overload as you stare at the intricate detail of the Doges Palace and marvel at the soaring Campanile bell tower. I was spending the night at the Cipriani before joining the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE) and being cosseted in such old-world luxury was a good preparation for the train. The Cipriani is located on Giudecca Island, a 10-minute (free) shuttle across the lagoon from St Mark’s Square. The hotel is home to central Venice’s only swimming pool, over which the terrace of my utterly old-fashioned, yet totally
charming suite looked out at. It’s also home to restaurant Oro, which has a more contemporary feel to it and a Michelin-quality avant garde menu. Sadly I didn’t have time to swim in that pool, nor take one of the hidden vineyard tours the hotel can arrange, nor its photographic exploration of this city at night. One of my only explorations of Venice was the one the €60 water taxi took me on – to lunch at the Aman Canal Grande Venice, which bagsied the Clooney-Alamuddin nuptials last year and it’s easy to see why, with its discrete entrance but opulent and romantic suites inside. Meanwhile, Venice saw the arrival of two big hitters this year – JW Marriott (see right) and St Regis, but the latter has since parted company with the owner of the San Clemente Palace Hotel and Kempinski is now on board. Meanwhile, it was time for me to get onboard
the VSOE. “This is no ordinary train” may be a line from the original trailer for Murder on the Orient Express, but it’s a pretty accurate definition of the real thing. Now the story is about to be reprised, and I don’t mean here in the pages of ttgluxury. No, Ridley Scott is one of the producers for a remake, with Kenneth Branagh potentially directing it. But even before that – a documentary is on the way this winter on Channel 4. It contains no murders; rather
The World’s Most Famous Train will look at what motivates people to part with more than £2,000 a night for a trip on the train.
Another era So what’s it like? Of course, it is a series of beautifully restored 1920s carriages, with impeccable attention to delicate detail, ornate marquetry and vintage style that evokes another era. On a practical note, there are 85 double cabins with upper and lower berths and 12 single cabins, while cabins can also be interconnecting to form suites and there are 45 staff. The welcome onboard was kicked off with a
glass of prosecco and my cabin steward telling me all I needed to know about the journey. Space is limited in the oak-panelled cabin and larger luggage has to be checked-in and stored separately. A vanity area inside a cupboard hides a hand-basin with L’Occitane amenities. There’s no TV, no Wi-Fi – the only thing to watch is the scenery slipping by the windows, starting with the vineyards of northern Italy and the Dolomites. A map is provided so you can track the progress through four more countries after Italy –Austria, Lichenstein, Switzerland and France in this case. Lunch and dinner are served in one of three
restaurant cars. Pretty Cote d’Azur, decorated with Lalique glass panels; L’Oriental with exotic
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is the most famous train in the world, but it could be a lot more famous soon thanks to a new film and a documentary. Meanwhile, the Venice hotel scene has been hotting up
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TTGLUXURY.COM WINTER 2015 TRIED & TESTED
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