12.30: Whet your appetite at one of the city centre’s two main markets, Modiano or Kapani, where stalls heave with fish, fruit and vegetables, before settling down for a meze lunch at one of the surrounding tavernas.
14.00: Discover the city’s Roman remains by taking a stroll with a Thessaloniki Monuments Map from the tourist office. Don’t miss the Arch of Galerius and the huge fourth-century Rotunda – a building based on Rome’s Pantheon. Now somewhat neglected, the partially visible mosaics give an idea of how glorious it once was. But be quick, as it closes at 3.00pm.
16.30: See the city’s Ottoman architecture by visiting Pazar or Yahudi Hamam, a 16th- century bathhouse that hosts the Louloudadika flower market. Enjoy a sundowner on the roof terrace of the Electra Palace Hotel, overlooking Aristotle Square and with a view out over the bay, before heading back to your hotel to freshen up.
20.30: Dine at the Zithos Dore restaurant near the sea for sumptuous Greek dishes in a traditional setting, with wooden tables and tiled floors.
23.00: Understand the city’s sense of tragedy by taking in a ‘rebetiko’
performance at a taverna. Not unlike Portuguese ‘fado’, this Greek folk music expresses great loss.
DAY TWO 09.00: Take a half-day trip to the village of Vergina, once the ancient city of Aigai and home to the tombs of Macedonian kings. The journey takes about 90 minutes and you need at least two hours at the site. Less than 1% of the ancient city has been excavated and new finds were announced as recently as March. The Palace of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great, won’t be open to visitors until at least next year. But the Polycentric Museum of Aigai (admission €8), created around the excavated tombs and treasures found within, is full of exquisite
artworks dating back to the fourth century BC. You’ll find painted grave stones, frieze fragments, mosaics, statues and a treasure trove of jewellery, alongside weapons, a suit of leather armour and more everyday items such as a writing box and a standard lamp.
13.30: The Olympiada restaurant is just a short walk away, serving simple and delicious food.
16.00: Returning to Thessaloniki, make time for one more exhibition. The Archeological Museum displays finds from the city and beyond, and places Aigai in context.
20.30: There is plenty of choice when it comes to dinner. For excellent seafood, try the Seven
travelweekly.co.uk — 24 July 2014
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