(see page 64 of our catalogue for further details)
Dear Editor,
TheAugust edition focus on facials and the treatment for clients aged 50 and over was excellent along with the importance of post-graduate training and business articles (Golden Rules, GNAugust). But it showed a gap in the market – which is untrue.
Inmy research four years ago, the 50+ age group was not well catered for
professionally.This ledme to develop a new and unique therapy-led 'holistic beauty therapy facial' that is perfect for these clients – I wish…®
The Full
Body
Facial.This natural two-hour facial therapy successfully combines the best of advanced beauty therapy and holistic therapies – enhancing the effectiveness of both.
Client testimonials show that theirmany ailments are replaced with energy, confidence, a clearer peacefulmind, inspired for new beginnings andmore fromthe holistic
therapies.Also the I wish 'glue' fulfils a raw basic need - for human compassion and empathy.
As the Guild News piece pointed out, these clients know themselves what they want and also a great treatment when
experienced.They appreciate looking better, and adore feelingmuch better when they leave.
JillYvette I wish…®The Full Body Facial Huddersfield
HabiaMDdeparts
RobYoung, formerManaging Director of Habia, has left the organisation by mutual consent.
Rob joined Habia in November 2012, as the organisation went through a period of transition, restructuring as part of an ongoingmerger with SkillsActive. During that time, various functions and departments of both organisations have been integratedmore closely.
Rob will be returning to his family business following his departure fromthe government-appointed standards setting body of the hair and beauty industries.
GUILD NEWS 19
over 50s skin care
over 50s skin care
Turning fifty is a landmarkmilestone, yet reaching the next decade heralds a newset of skin care and beauty
challenges.We showcase the bestways inwhich you can help your clients fabulously flourish at 50.
As awoman enters into her fifties, she really is stepping into her
prime.The niggles and insecurities thatmay have plagued her younger years have been swept aside, and in their place stands a strong, smart and self-assured individual ready to take on life’s future challengeswith full gusto.
over 50s skin care over 50s skin care
Although her inner beautymay be primped and preened, her outwardly appearance is still naturally of paramount importance. Looking and feeling good transcends all ages, yet as the ageing process begins to take its toll, it’s often our skin that’s first to suffer. Issues such aswrinkles, dryness, loss of radiance, age and sun spots, are just some of the frequent issues affectingmature skins.
TheDPL Skin Rejuvenation process uses pulsed light to heat the under-layers of the skinwhich stimulates the production of collagen (the substance that keeps skin firm and supple).Additional collagenmeans firmer, smoother skinwith a visible reduction in fine lines andwrinkles, particularly on the face, neck and décolletage. Light and safe to use, your clientswon’t feel anything other than gentlewarmth.Ten days after their first treatment theywill see a real difference in the look and feel of their skin. For optimum results, between six and ten treatments at intervals of seven-ten days is recommended. After a course ofDPL Rejuvenation treatments your client’s skinwill appear firmer and fuller.
after care
Nowthat your clients have experienced the effective results fromtheir professional treatments, theywill no doubt be eager to continue andmaximise the effects away from the
salon.There is an array of products at your disposal ideal for retailing,which also provides a great opportunity for you to impart your own professionalwisdom, helping to select the right products in order to address their individual areas of concernwhether that is fine lines, restoring plumpness or evening out skin tone.
Mesoestetic’s StemCellActiveGrowth Factor is a regenerative creamthat combines the action of plant stemcells extractwith that of growth factors (small fragments of biologically active proteins that belong to the cytokine group) to achieve skin restructuration frominside the
cell.These are key elements to intercellular communication and external control of cell reproduction
mechanisms.They can attract and guide the
cells at the sitewhere they are needed, and are involved in the generation of newcells by cell division.
The aimof the product is to support skin cells by strengthening their self-repair
ability.The highly concentrated plant stemcell extract combats advanced signs of photoageing and repairs skin damage caused by intrinsic factors, skin stress, and environmental exposure.
Expanding the brand’sAGE smart® line, theMultiVitamin Power Serumfrom Dermalogica delivers synergistic dual benefits to ageing
skin.The combination of a potent,more skin friendly formof vitaminA and a ground-breaking newformulation process enhances the effectiveness of the product.
The serumhas been introduced for daytime use as a counterpart to the Overnight Repair
Serum.The new antioxidant-rich formula features vitaminsA, C, E and F to enhance cell-turnover, reduce hyperpigmentation, and ensure a smoother surface appearance. Unlike earlier iterations of retinol [vitamin A] and its derivatives, the serum’s ‘hero’ ingredient Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate [HPR] does not requiremetabolic conversion, and does not trigger redness and
irritation.This retinoid ester is readily available in the skin to stimulate cell turnover and to inhibitMMPs [enzymes] that degrade collagen and elastin.
Clients can help fight the effects of ageing overnightwith ÉminenceOrganic Skincare’s newAge CorrectiveNight
Collection.This 100%natural range is clinically proven to deliver fast-acting age- fighting results, helping clients’ skin to recover as they sleep.
The collection comprises of four products which all feature an exclusive anti-ageing stemcell complex alongside Lavender, Monoi and Evening PrimroseOil.Working together these ingredients provide results- driven products that deliver visibly younger looking skinwith smoothness
increased.The plant stemcells deeply penetrate the skin and work to regenerate dermal cells, helping to reverse the signs of ageing andminimise the appearance
ofwrinkles.The Range features: LavenderAge CorrectiveNight Concentrate, MonoiAge CorrectiveNight Creamfor Face andNeck, LavenderAge CorrectiveNight Eye Cream, andMonoiAge CorrectiveNight Body Cream.
For brighter skin,why not recommend Dermaquest’s RetinolYouth
Serum.This product improves tone, exfoliates and promotes collagen.
It contains Retinol, a pure and active vitamin
A.VitaminAis one of the fewsubstances with a small enoughmolecular structure to penetrate the outer layers of the skin and works to repair the lower layerswhere collagen and elastin
reside.The serumallows skin to repair and stimulate collagen and elastin; creating firmer, smoother, softer skin. Poreswill appear smaller and less noticeable; and signs of ageingwill start to diminish. Advise clients towashwith amild cleanser and then apply one pump of the serumevery other night, for the first twoweeks in order to achieve the desired result.
If your clientwishes to focus on gaining back their eye sparkle, then Payot’sDesign Lift Regard treatment provides a triple action performance to targetwrinkles, dark circles and puffiness. Inspired by the latest research into the benefits of Calciumfor the skin, the
golden rules
by samantha lloyd
Clients can halt the signs of ageingwith the help of Silhouette’s Repair Complex Cream which has been designed to stop the signs and effects of ageing, such as skin dryness, fine lines andwrinkles, tissue thinning, skin redness and poor circulation.
38 GUILD NEWS
Rich in Soya andGermextract, these phytoestrogens protect the skinwhilst mimicking the body’s own
collagen.The action of its natural phytoestrogens can prevent and repair collagen degradation whilst protecting the skin and its cutaneous cells.
Another range of home care options available fromthe brand is Skin-Lite,which has been developed to particularly combat irregular pigmentationmarks, age and sun spots, and to leave skinwith a fresh radiant complexion. Products fromthe collection such as
brand’s newPepti-Oriza-Calciumcomplex works at the heart of the cells to reactivate the skin's vital functions and restore its elasticity
in-depth.The unique formula combines the fortifying power of Calciumwith powerful and natural ultra-lifting ‘fitness’ actives for an effective firming action.Wrinkles and fine lines are instantly smoothed, dark circles are eliminated and the appearance of under-eye puffiness diminished.
Also for the eye area, the home care version of Priori’s award-winning Smoothing Eye Serumcan be used twice a day by clients for great
results.The product contains the peptide AcetylHexapeptide-8,which relaxes the superficialmuscle contraction around the eye area giving a smoother, firmer appearance. The addition of LacticAcid to this product also increases skin volume to further reduce those peskywrinkles.
cleansers, toners andmoisturisers, aimto maintain the skin’s equilibrium, brighten and balance skin tone and reduce pigmentation.
The Skin Care bt-Cocktail™fromBio Therapeutic is a strategic three part skin care energy systemthat provides the benefit of hydration, renewal, and cell
protection.As with every living cell in the body, the skin requires an enormous amount of themost vital formof energy thatmakes life itself possible;AdenosineTriphosphate (ATP).The unique proprietary blend of ingredients within the systemallowfor optimal cellular health by nourishing, protecting, and enhancing the capabilities of the mitochondria; the heart ofwhereATP is manufactured.
Alongside usewithin salon treatments, the range can be purchased by clients for home care
support.Advise clients to apply the first step, bt-Cocktail™Energy 1which contains licochalcone as a sebumregulator to reduce oil, and to lighten and brighten the
skin.This product should be applied after toning, to the face, neck, and décolleté.Next, apply Energy 2 to the same areas and followwith Energy 3. Containing Phytoquintescine, the product protects against oxidative damages that greatly impair skin functions that can lead to sensitivity and premature ageing.
For a complete product range option created to visibly reduce the signs of skin ageing, enhance skin density, elasticity and resilience and fortify its natural defences, you could suggest Biodroga’sAge Performance Formula. Products in the range include the Restoring Facial Fluid forMature
Skin.This lightweight product conditions demanding, thirsty skinwith a one of a kind nourishing skin care cocktail leaving it silky smooth.
boost with supplements
With their outwardly appearance nowtaken care of, it’s alsoworth considering a nurturing boost fromthe
inside.According to Lorraine Perretta, nutritional consultant at the AdvancedNutrition Programme,while clients of any age see improvements in their skinwhen taking a good all-round multivitamin andmineral supplement, the 50 plus age group should focus especially on boosting the levels of certain collagen boosting ingredients: “We need to give our clientsmuchmore than topical skin care at this
age.There aremany nutrientswhich are helpful,when taken at effective levels in supplements,” she explains. “Aswe age,we make less collagen and the depleted stores that remain have accumulated damage byUV rays, pollution and stress.You particularly need to increase the oral intake of nutrients to promote collagen formation; you need to protect the skinwith free radical quenching antioxidants tominimise the signs of ageing; and to prevent existing collagen breakdown.”
AdvancedNutrition Programme’s Skin Collagen Support, available fromthe iiaa, has a combination of specially chosen ingredients which strengthen the integrity of the skin and with the added bonus of vitamin C, this formula helps to support and protect collagen
production.VitaminsA, C andDcontribute to collagen
synthesis.The inclusion of Grapeseed extract, in particular, is a strong support in preventing the breakdown of connective tissues by inhibiting the destructive action of the enzyme collagenase. The recommended dosage is two capsules per daywith food,with each jar containing a month’s supply.
“Skin in our 50s can include a loss of tone, dryness, blotchiness, sun spots, the appearance of fine lines, a dull appearance and a loss of collagenwhichmakes it look ‘saggy’, especially at the neck and décolletage,” comments Izzy Jaffer, salon owner of Institut de Beauté. “The effects occur for a number of reasons; slower cell turnover, loss of skin elasticity, lack of collagen production, sun damage, or even a drop inOestrogenwhich decreases oil production. Each of these areasmay cause the face and neck skin structure to change andwhilst everywoman is different, these are themost common complaints.”
During your professional career youwill have no doubt encountered awide spectrum of 50-something skins. Fromthose clients who have been religiouslymoisturising day and night froma young age, to thosewho perhaps are only just beginning to seriously contemplate the benefits of a daily beauty
regime.Yet regardless of their skin state, it’s important to assure your clients that it’s never too late to begin, or indeed to change tacticswhen it comes to skin
care.As our
skin changeswith time, so does its fundamental
requirements.The issueswe faced in our twenties and the productswe used to tackle themwill be superseded by a newset of concerns. It’s nowtime to take those all-important reparative steps rather than preventive ones.
stop the clock!
In order to treat your fabulous over 50s, it’s important to delve a little deeper to uncover howthe skin is affected by time and therefore,what you can do to assist in its recovery. Firstly,why exactly are these changes occurring?
“At this age the client’s primary concern is to address the signs of premature ageing as the skin is going through several changes,” explains Sharon Cass, Education and Brand Manager at Cosmeceuticals. “The cornified layer of the epidermis is getting thicker making the skin look dull (it reflects light poorly) and leathery, and the living areas of the epidermis and the dermis start to thin and loose
elasticity.The slowing down of cellular renewalmakes the skin lose elasticity, becoming thinner andmore fragile.”
“Themusculatureweakenswith age,” adds CandiceGardner,Dermalogica’s Educational CurriculumManager. “A weakening of the orbicularis oculimuscle around the eyes, for example, allows fat to herniate through resulting in bags under the
eyes.The eyebrowsmay sag due to a weakening of the frontalis (forehead)muscle and jowlsmay format the angles of the jaw due to aweakening of the platysma neck muscle.”
Of course one of themost fundamental changesmanywomenwill facewhen entering into this decade is themenopause, and the repercussions this has on the body often plays a factor inmany of themature skin conditions, as Candice notes: “Decline
ofOestrogen duringmenopause is one of the things that accelerates skin ageing.”
Oestrogen receptors tend to bemost abundant around the face, and therefore these areas are especially vulnerable to reduced amounts of this circulating hormone. Lack ofOestrogen not only causes the skin to become drier, but the production of collagen and elastin fibres is also extremely slow.
Due to their complex nature,mature skins need to be approached in the rightmanner, sowhat products and treatments should you use to getmaximumresults in the salon, and also recommend to your clients for home care support? “In order to help combat [ageing] issues, the ideal solutionwould be a combination treatment planwhichwould incorporate a gentle exfoliation to brighten and smooth, toning effects towork on the muscle tone and intensive hydrating to help combat the dryness and dehydration causing the lines andwrinkles,” says Sharon Hilditch,MBE,MDof Crystal Clear.
Izzy adds: “The key is tomoisturise. Moisturisers help hydrate the skin and plump out fine
lines.Try to go for products with anti-ageing properties such as antioxidants, vitamins,minerals, hyaluronic acid, and alpha hydroxy acids,which can really boost the end result. If your [client is] aftermore dramatic results, search for products that contain retinoids, peptides or alpha hydroxy or amino acids. Consider Laser treatments and skin rejuvenation treatments too.”
Nomatter howhardwe try, (andwish), wrinkles and the signs of ageingwill befall us
all.Yet luckily, the process can be halted, disguised and diminished to some degree. For professionals, an array of products and treatments are available to address the needs ofmature skin. It’s all about enhancing natural beauty, in order for your clients to leave the salon, literally, feeling comfortable in their own skin.
GUILD NEWS 39
Formore information:
Advanced Nutrition Programme/iiaa
Dermalogica’sMultiVitamin Power Serumdelivers synergistic dual benefits to ageing skin.
Silhouette’sRepairComplexCreamcan combat issues such as skin dryness, fine lines andwrinkles.
Help your clients improve tone and promote collagenwith Dermaquest’s RetinolYouth Serum.
AdvancedNutrition Programme’s SkinCollagen Support strengthens the integrity of the skin.
Beauty Concepts International / Biodroga Bio-Therapeutic UK Carlton Beauty&Spa Crystal Clear Cosmeceuticals Dermalogica Dermaquest
0208 450 2020 01273 837 302
029 2023 1228 01903 768 387 0151 709 7227 0845 555 2121 0800 591 818 0845 620 2020
ÉminenceOrganic Skincare 01527 834 904 EnergistMedicalGroup Germaine de Capuccini Mesoestetic
Naturastudios Payot
Skinbreeze
Silhouette International Thalgo
01792 798 768 0845 600 0203 01746 718 123 0844 376 0026 0207 205 5008 0845 208 0220 0161 980 1080 0800 146 041
AlwaysmentionGuild News when calling.
44 GUILD NEWS
GUILD NEWS 45
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