thick brass wire but I substituted Tichy .010″ phosphor bronze wire. The Tichy wire is thinner and sturdier than the included brass wire.
Another piece of the kit that I dis- carded was the caboose end ladder. I was looking for something with a little finer detail, so I opted to build my own. I used styrene strip material for the vertical runners and bits of .008″ phos- phor bronze wire for the rungs. Once completed, these ladder assemblies were attached directly to the model us- ing cyanoacrylate. The grab irons have locating holes burned into the wood siding so I just opened them up with a No. 80 drill bit in my pin vise. I bent grab irons from the .010″ phosphor bronze wire and secured them with a small amount of cyanoacry-
The roof parts were test fit onto the model (above) but not attached permanently yet. The lower sashes still have to be added to the windows. The caboose and sashes were painted with Polly Scale Rock Island Maroon (right). Be sure to paint the model from all angles. The laser cutter leaves black burn marks on the edges of the wood which will look strange if left unpainted. Once the parts are painted, clear glazing was added to the windows. Parts of the upper window frame were cut off of the interior sashes so that the windows could be modeled in the opened position (lower right).
At this point the majority of the
work was completed so I then painted the model. I chose Polly Scale Rock Is- land Maroon. The DL&W cabooses were all over the map when it came to the color, depending on era and usage. This color had that maroon hue that I was looking for. I painted the body and also painted the inner window sashes which were still on the fret. Since the paintwork was primarily finished I could assemble the windows now. I cut squares of clear styrene for the upper and lower window sashes. The peel-n-stick backing on the win- dow sashes is still intact so no glue is necessary to hold the glazing in place. For windows that are being modeled in the closed position, no modification to the inner sash is necessary. For windows that are modeled in the opened position, I simply cut part of the upper window frame away from the inner sash pieces. This allows the inner sash to be slid upward. A tiny dab of odorless cyanoacrylate will hold the inner sash in place. I attached the roof pieces now since the window assemblies were complet- ed. I used small dabs of odorless cyano- acrylate to do this. When the roof pieces were secured I started working on the end railings. The kit comes with
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN 77
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