Modeling the DL&W’s eight wheel, wood caboose
a bit fuzzy when it comes to the instal- lation of these strips. The rivets are closer to the bottom edge of the strips. The top edge of the strip was pressed into the back side of the wood sheath- ing. The brass strips will want to stick to the peel-n-stick backing of the wood sheathing, but I ran a bead of cyano- acrylate along the inside of the caboose floor, which secured the strips perma- nently.
The buffer strip and steps are at-
The underside details are pretty simple (above). Since the author chose the Bettendorf T- section trucks, he used the standard spacing of the bolsters. Had he used the Kitbits six- foot center caboose trucks, he would have had to move the bolsters inward to accommo- date the longer truck length. The brass rivet strips along the bottom of the sides is pressed against the wood siding and secured with a bead of cyanoacrylate (below). The directions are a bit fuzzy when it comes to this step. This is how it should look.
tached to each end of the caboose. It is important to drill out the holes in the buffer strips prior to installing them on the caboose. (Guess who screwed that step up!) Learn from my mistake and do it right the first time. That was one of those times where I got caught up in the moment and went too far too quick- ly. Four holes are drilled into the top edge of the strip and two pairs of holes are drilled into the outside face of the strip. These will be for the end railings and grab irons that are installed later on in the process.
Building and installing the roof sec- tions is probably the trickiest part of the process. Getting the curvature of the roof sections to match the curva- ture of the body is critical. The cupola roof is thinner material and bends fair- ly easily, while the other two roof halves are a bit thicker and require more patience. I used cyanoacrylate to attach the braces to the edge of the roof. Once that cyanoacrylate had cured, I bent the roof over the braces and attached the other edge with cyanoacrylate. Clamps were used to hold the assembly together while the cyanoacrylate cured. I then test fit the roof pieces on the model without gluing them in place. Some sanding might be necessary to ensure a snug fit.
scribed lines across the base of the floor. These locating marks are intend- ed for use with the Bettendorf T-sec- tion trucks, which are narrower than the original six-foot wheelbase caboose trucks. It is possible to model a caboose with the six-foot wheelbase trucks (Kitbits part No. 124) by moving the bolsters inward. I mounted the brake hardware using pads made from left- over scraps of styrene. The kit includes two long brass strips with rivet detail across the bot- tom. These are located along the base of the caboose sides and finish the edge of the frame/floor. The instructions are
The assembly of the roof parts (right) is straightforward but takes patience to do correctly. Getting the curvature just right is critical. The author used cyanoacrylate to secure all of the parts because of its fast cure time and strength.
76 AUGUST 2013
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