inside of the model. This is the part that would slide up and down. Rather than assembling the model, painting it and then adding the glazing in one piece to the back of the entire window assembly, I decided to add the glazing to the upper and lower sashes inde- pendently. This would allow me to “open up” the windows and give the ca- boose that lived in feel. I left the inner sash pieces on the wood fret and put them aside for painting with the model later on.
The underside of the caboose kit had very little detail, which is good for me since you don’t really see much of that stuff anyway. It would not be difficult to add all of the air lines if the modeler so desired, though. The location of the truck bolsters is marked by a pair of
One of the most important steps when building a wood kit is to seal the wood parts with clear paint. The parts (above) are laid out in a shallow cardboard container and sprayed outdoors for ventilation purposes.
ing this on the wooden parts will seal the wood and keep the glue and paint from soaking into the wood which could warp the parts. Once the Crystal Clear is dry I use steel wool to smooth out the surface of the wood. The rough texture prior to using the steel wool will look odd once paint is applied and make decal application nearly impossi- ble. I then applied another very light coat of Crystal Clear to the parts. The “structural” parts of the caboose re- ceive Crystal Clear on both sides. Cos- metic parts are the parts with peel and stick backing and those parts only re- ceive Crystal Clear on the outside. It may seem like common sense, but it is worthy of mentioning. With the parts sealed, it is time to start building the caboose. Follow the directions. Almost every- thing you need to know is in the direc- tions. There are few places I deviated but for the most part, the directions will get you across the finish line with a model that is museum quality. I as- sembled the wood core of the model per the instructions. Make sure the parts fit snugly so the exterior sheathing fits perfectly. I then added the exterior sheathing and the exterior window trim. The parts all fit together using the peel-n-stick backing. This method works exceptionally well. I deviated from the instructions when it came to the installation of the inner window sashes. The wider part of the window sash should be at the top of the window and on the outside of the model. The in- ner window sash should have the wider part at the bottom and be on the
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
The core of the caboose (above) is the backbone of the model. The core walls must fit snugly so the exterior sheathing will fit perfectly. The exterior sheathing is applied per the instruc- tions (below). The author deviated from the instructions with the assembly of the windows. He added the upper sashes first and added the lower sashes later on after painting. The clear glazing was installed in the upper sash separately from the lower ones. This adds dimension to the windows and allows the lower sashes to be positioned in different locations.
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