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1″×2″ styrene was used to simulate stirrup step brackets. The Branchline underframe had to be trimmed slightly in order to fit between the new side sills. While I was working on the un- derframe, I also cut the center sill back to make room for Kadee coupler boxes. Kadee bracket grabs were used on the left sides and the ends. A-Line type “A” stirrup steps and a Cal-Scale retain- er


valve were used to replace the


Branchline parts. I installed ³/₄″ brass wire for the roof grabs and 1″ brass wire for the cut levers (Yarmouth eyebolts were used with both). Branchline lad- ders were used, but I plugged all but the


WALTER E. FROST COLLECTION, CITY OF VANCOUVER ARCHIVES; NO. CVA 447-1752.1: VANCOUVER, B.C. CANADA; AUG. 29, 1952


The two eight-foot Branchline seven-panel Superior doors (above left) are shown with the cuts and splices. The lower large panel and the four panels above it are re- tained from the original door (red). From the green donor door, the top panel is re- moved and the second, larger panel and the one below it are retained. This section is glued to the top of the original door. The door is then placed on the shell (above right) and the side sills are filed and sand- ed even with the bottom of the floor. Once the modifications are made (left) the car is ready for paint, decals and weathering.


,bottom holes in the ends and removed a portion of the ladder bottom. The last steps before painting were to give the model a tender scrubbing with


dishwashing detergent and a


into the slots located on the floor of the car directly behind the doors. Then I carefully filed and sanded the existing side sills and sill tabs even with the bottom of the floor. Once this was ac- complished, I attached the InterMoun- tain Dreadnaught ends after trimming the locator pins off the ends, as they don’t line up with the Branchline holes.


A strip of Evergreen Scale Models styrene (.040″×.060″) was cut to length and added to the bottom of each


RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN


side, and then I filled the seam with Squadron putty. In order to hold the side sill extension, I added a piece of scale 1″×10″×20′-0″ styrene to the back of the first piece, and then added the scale 2″×6″×20′-0″ sill extender. The ends of the sill extender are cut at a slight angle. Since the lower door guide was removed in the sanding process, a piece of scale 2″×3″×17′-0″ styrene was used as a replacement. Side sill corner gussets were fabricated from .010″ styrene, and a piece of scale


toothbrush to remove any dirt and oil from handling, then adding the decal rivets, which are sold by both Archer and Micro Mark, on the side sill. (One must be careful here. The decals can be knocked off easily with rough han- dling until they are painted.) The boxcar was airbrushed with Flo- quil Boxcar Red, sprayed with Testors gloss clear, decaled (a Walthers alpha- bet set was used for the reporting marks on the doors), weathered with airbrush and chalks, and, lastly, a coat of Testors Dullcote. The final items to be added were the Hi-Tech air hoses and a scrap of paper on the tack boards.


This simple kitbash added a nice variation to my boxcar fleet.


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