q&a by dermalogica
ask the expert Sally Penford answers your skin care questions
Q:What do you think is the most valuable ingredient for fighting the signs of skin ageing?
A:With somany high-tech ingredients such as peptides and themany vitamins available to the cosmetic formulator, I have to say the one ingredient that comes to mind with themost scientific evidence in support of its efficacy is indeed pure vitaminA.
Known as the normalising vitamin, it is a real work-horse when it comes to reversing the signs of ageing in
skin.VitaminA, more accurately called Retinol, has been shown to reverse the signs of natural or chronological ageing (intrinsic) and environmentally induced (extrinsic) photoageing.
According to Dr.Voorhees and his research teamat the University of Michigan, lotions containing Retinol were demonstrated to improve the appearance of skin that had wrinkled through the normal ageing process, not just skin that has been damaged by exposure to the sun. Researchers tested lotions containing retinol on the skin of elderly patients. Lotion containing 0.4%Retinol was used on one armof each participant, while a lotion without Retinol was applied to the other arm.Wrinkles, roughness and overall ageing were all significantly reduced in the Retinol-treated armcompared with the control arm, according to the study, which appears in the Archives of Dermatology.
The scientists are quick to note that the production of collagen, due to the Retinol treatment, not only improves the skin’s appearance, but is an importantmeans of protecting skin as it becomesmore fragile with
age.The study showed that the reduction of wrinkles was due to increased collagen production (that strengthens the skin) and a significant induction of
glycosaminoglycans, which are known to retain large quantities of water keeping tissues well hydrated and supple.
This research serves as an important step forward in the understanding of how ageing skin can be improved, researchers say. In the past, everyone believed that retinoids would treat only photoageing, or damage fromexposure to
sun.These latest findings show that “it improves any kind of ageing – photoageing as well as natural ageing,” says co-author John J.Voorhees, M.D, chair of the Department of Dermatology at the University of MichiganMedical School. “You can rub it anywhere, and it will help to treat the signs of ageing.” So while wemay all be thinking only in terms of our appearance, these findings are significant for maintaining the health of an ageing global population. Callme vain but I’moff to findmy Retinol.
Q: Does skin have different needs fromday to night?
A:The answer is quite simply yes! Our skin is a dynamic organ that reflects our inner health but also changes with the seasons and environment, and it fluctuates fromday to night. It’s not only you that has to work during the day, skin has a long list of job responsibilities, too!
Skin excretes themost sebumatmidday, which coincides with the least amount of Trans EpidermalWater Loss (TEWL.) It is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) rays, environmental pollution, smoke, poor diet, caffeine,make-up and extreme temperature changes. It subsequently is harder at work andmore stressed during the day, fighting Reactive Oxygen Species
(ROS – free radicals) and capturing chemical invaders, shielding fromUV rays and producingmore lipids to adjust to changing temperatures and humidity levels.
Daytime exposure is similar to sending skin into battle. Prep it with an arsenal of antioxidants and cell energisers to neutralise free
radicals.Always protect fromUV rays andmop up excess oil productionmid-day.
Skin excretes less sebum, losesmore water and is hotter andmore acidic at night. It is likely to be drier and perhapsmore vulnerable to irritation as well, whichmay explain why some people complain of ‘night-time itch’ or ‘flare-ups’of inflammatory skin conditions at night. Skin also repairs itselfmore, and cell renewal is enhanced in the evening.
Instruct your clients to deeply cleanse skin at night to remove deep down dirt, long- lastingmake-up and sunscreens. Repair damage and stimulate cell renewal while replenishing lost lipids with a powerful cocktail of peptides, Retinol and botanicals.
No. 1Tip:Don’t Forget to Catch Some Zzzzzs! The body uses sleep time for internal housekeeping – processing nutrients, detoxifying, renewing and recharging. If your body is chronically starved for sleep, the effects will eventually become visibly and physically noticeable!
Sally Penford is UK and Ireland EducationManager for The International Dermal Institute. For more
information, telephone 08000 564 544 or visit
www.dermalinstitute.co.uk
GUILD NEWS 49
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