dr samdhattwrites
vitamin C,Arbutin,KojicAcid andMulberry, have been favored for their ability to inhibitmelanin by targeting the tyrosinase enzyme,which converts the amino acid phenylalanine into themelanin precursors.
Chromabright, a newer treatment comprised of a syntheticmolecule, has exhibited significant brightening properties in in vivo clinical trials by demonstratingmelanin inhibition on parwith hydroquinone, an effective yet controversial skin lightenerwith potential side effects. Chromabright also helps preventUV-induced skin damage.
In addition, somewhitening peptides have demonstrated tyrosinase-inhibiting activity by affecting the proteins in the tyrosinase enzyme.
In 15 to 20%concentrations, azelaic acid as amelanin inhibitormay be as effective as hydroquinone yetwithout the irritation, according to some studies.
Glutathioneworks a little differently thanmainstay tyrosinase inhibitors. Instead, this natural tripeptide competeswithmelanin’s precursors and reducesmelanin’s ability to develop pigment.
In addition, hexylresorcinol offers not only skin-brightening benefits butmay also increaseUVprotection andminimize the appearance of fine lines andwrinkles.
Effective topical vitamins include niacinamide and several forms of vitamin C, including L-ascorbic acid,magnesiumascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, an oil-soluble version.
In addition to having a direct skin-lightening effect, vitamin C can help protect against sun damage by neutralising free radicals that contribute to hyperpigmentation. Studies have shown that vitamins C and E in combination can improve the efficacy of sunscreen.
Agreat all-around skin vitamin, vitaminAhelps pigmentation problems by treating slight discolourations and evening skin
tone.VitaminAcan be taken orally aswell as applied topically in the formof a retinol creamor other retinoid.
foods that can change the tone
Interestingly, psoralens (furocoumarin compounds), a common remedy used to treat Vitilago, a skin disorder resulting fromlack of pigmentation, has demonstrated an ability to absorb radiant energy and stimulate pigmentwhen photoactivated in the presence ofUVAorUVB.When certain psoralen-containing foods, such as Parsnips, Limes, Parsley and Celery come into contactwith the skin, they can augment the effects of sun exposure and increase the risk of age spots.
Eating these foodswill not have the same effect as handling themwith the skin, and, according to a 2009 study, pre-treating the skinwith psoralensmay have a protective effect againstUVB by stimulating production of naturally protective flavonoids and carotenoids [5].
On the other hand, eating a diet rich in fruits and vegetablesmight help preventUV- induced hyperpigmentation by protecting skinwith antioxidants.Good examples include berries,Kiwi,Grapefruit,Kale and Spinach.
By understanding the effects nutrients and topicals can have on the skin,we can speed results andwork in amore positive direction toward treatment.
Sources: 3. Cutis, 2005 76(2); 135-41 4. Journal of CosmeticDermatol,Vol. 7, Issue 1,March 2008 5. Ecotoxicol Environ Saf, 2009, 72 (4): 1129-36. Epub 2009 Feb 1
Dr SamDhatt is a highly respected, award-winning cosmeceutical chemist, and President and CEO of Dermaquest SkinTherapy. Formore information
telephone 0845 24 64 666 quoting Guild News or visit
www.dermaquestinc.co.uk
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