lisa chapmanwrites spray solutions
Lisa Chapman explains how to carry out a successful spray tan
I amnot going to try and describe or give a lesson in detail on spraying technique in this article, but hopefully give you a few pointers.
I would guess everyone reading this has the same goal and that is to create a totally natural sunless tan for your clients. If that's not your goal I believe you will not build a successful sunless tanning business.
Let’s consider the basics first. What makes a tan look natural? There are three main elements, tone, depth of colour and, just as important, highlights and lowlights. When we tan in the sun clearly the sun is always above us. Even if your are a sun junky you may well attempt to get the most even tan possible, but you never will. No matter what you do you will have hot spots due the sun always being above you. As soon as you walk around certain areas of your body receive more UV exposure than others. This subtle effect is what you must replicate when you spray tan your clients.
tanning tricks
The trick is to develop a technique that you always use that takes this into account and always delivers the correct highlights and lowlights. This technique is just extended or exaggerated when you 'body sculpture' clients using spray tanning. When you know what you are doing you can visually take 15lbs off your client in 15 minutes. Trust me they'll be back for more.
Look at the two pictures below.Which square is lighter,A or B?As you can see they are in fact both the same.A sunless tanning professional uses exactly the same optical illusion to create a natural tan or a
sculptured body. It really is that powerful and really work on your clients.
Lets look at 'tone'. Different tones should be achieved by the product you apply and not your spraying technique. Spraying technique can only provide subtle highlights and lowlights.A common mistake is to believe that by applying more of the same product you will alter the tone. This is simply not the case.A given skin type will only absorb and react with a given quantity of DHA. Over deliver product on your clients skin and they will go orange. Tone is all about the client’s skin type and your trainer should have shown you how to identify different skin tones through a brief consultation with your client: Cool, Neutral orWarm.
depth of colour
Again depth should not be a spraying technique issue and this is another common mistake many spray tanners make. Having established your clients skin tone the next step is to use the Fitzpaterick Scale (think back to beauty college) to guide your client as to what level of DHA their skin will stand. There's scope for any client to go lighter or darker but using the Fitzpaterick Scale you will be able to guide your client as to their
limits.Again, applying more or less product simply won't work for the reason described above.
So if we apply the logic re-tone and depth of colour and you apply these principles, you should be spraying every single client with exactly the same technique. That is you should not be putting different amounts of product on your clients in order to affect the tone and colour depth. This has a great advantage as all you need to concentrate on is delivering the subtle lowlights and highlights and making sure you don't miss an area.
highlights and lowlights
Examples of critical areas for lowlights/highlights would be the tops of thighs, décolletage and
forearms.All these areas are hot spots when we tan in the sun. This is where technique really helps.
Your spray equipment produces aV shape and should allow the spray pattern - i.e. the V to be set horizontally, vertically or to deliver a small circle.
You should be using a vertical pattern for the upper body and spraying with a horizontal motion (i.e. side to side).As you move to the legs the spray pattern should be horizontal and your spraying motion should be up and down. Clearly there's a bit more to it than I can describe here but hopefully this gives you an idea of the principles involved.
The circle pattern is used for body contouring to exaggerate the highlights and lowlights
further.Also with body contouring you will require two DHA levels, one for the basecoat and one for the hot spots.
A combination of using the vertical and horizontal spray patterns and giving your clients the correct instructions on how to stand and hold their arms automatically produces the required highlights and lowlights that create a totally natural sunless tan.
Aviva Labs believes that education is the key to taking a sunless tanning business from 20 tans per week to a serious part of your beauty offering.
Hope you find this interesting and that it inspires you to drive your business forward. Sunless tanning is an art that can be mastered by anyone willing to apply themselves.
Lisa Chapman is MD of Aviva Labs UK,
distributors of high performance sunless products. For more information telephone 01642 356930 or visit
www.avivalabs-uk.com
Which square is lighter A or B? Neither they are both the same
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