ILLUSTRATION BY EDWIN FOTHERINGHAM
TOWN & COUNTRY POOLS INC.
AFTER 33 YEARS
We Are Still One-Of-A-Kind
(Continued from Page 35)
all trades.” Give in to your inner caveman, and
go for meat. Labonne makes his own pâté from ground pork and veal, which he seasons with sweet spices, serving the indulgence in thick slabs. Chopped raw beef gets racy with the addition of the condiments to the side: Diced shallots, cornichons, capers and parsley lend bite or breeze to the steak tartare. Long, thin links of spicy sausage,
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or merguez, are nearly upstaged by the dreamy mashed potatoes and the jewellike cake of chopped tomato, eggplant and onion that round out the entree. The light crunch and subtle sweetness of that ratatouille are a delicate counterpoint to the sausage. Lamb chops leave the grill scored and rosy; their brown gravy, ignited with both black and green peppercorns, pricks the tongue. Labonne also sautes an appealing duck breast, but why was he serving the fowl with sweet potatoes last month? The vegetable is better suited to a winter appetite. As meaty as this menu is, Bistro
La Bonne offers some relatively light alternatives, including a goat-cheese- and-walnut salad and a vegetable tart striped with pesto, both big enough to share. Salmon, shrimp and mussels, gathered in a black casserole with a sauce that brings together wine, cream and notes from the sea, arrives with another vessel containing rice. No ordinary grains, these are flavored with rich fish stock. Mussels are also served open-faced, dappled with an herbed topping of the type used for baked snails. Unfortunately, the cover is soggy and flat. Steamed mussels are better. This is not food that demands
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your undivided attention. Rather, it’s the kind of cooking that nicely complements date night or a gathering of friends. Bistro La Bonne misses on some important details, however. Its bread is ordinary. Your first and sometimes second choice of wine might be unavailable, and if you’re considering a red, be sure to request an ice bucket to chill it when you order an invariably warm-to-the-touch bottle. I’m a sucker for meringue, which
explains my habit of ordering floating island for dessert. A French classic, it showcases a glacier shaped from beaten egg whites and sugar (the island) on
Ask Tom
At the Bethesda branch of Jaleo, Evan May took one bite of a scallop dish and “realized [the seafood] was completely raw,” she writes in an e-mail. “I cut the other scallop into a few pieces, but it was also raw.” May sent the plate back and was “surprised and dismayed when the dish returned to me was the exact same scallops.” According to the Chevy Chase reader, “the kitchen had re-sauteed all the pieces and put [them] back on a plate with only half of the garnish ingredients.” She asks, “Is it usual to re-cook food that has already been served?” No, says a surprised Jaleo chef JohnPaul Damato, who was working the night that May ate those seared scallops (which are meant to be cooked rare to medium-rare). Typically, and even after diners have eaten half of an item, Damato says, he prepares “a whole other dish” for the very reasons May raises: It looks more attractive, and it better represents the restaurant.
Send your thoughts, wishes and, yes, even gripes to
asktom@washpost.com.
a pool of vanilla-bean custard sauce (a sea of sorts). You can also order creme brulee and cherry claflouti, its baked-custard batter similar to that of a pancake, but neither finish is more delicious than that meringue embellished with almond slivers and threads of caramel. The profiteroles come close, however, thanks to their crisp, puffed pastry shells and house- made chocolate sauce. By the end of a meal on a busy
night, my ears hurt. Still, I’m sporting a smile. You might wear one, too, if you knew you were having more of Labonne’s cooking tomorrow: Leftovers!
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