EDITORIAL


001_CB_DEC_cover_SDJW.qxp_Layout 1 24/11/2021 15:35 Page 1


December 2021


December 2021 cosmeticsbusiness.com


cosmeticsbusiness.com


High-end


packaging The new cues for luxury


CUSTOM DELIVERY The systems enhancing actives’ efficacy


RETAIL RIGHTS Protecting those on beauty’s front line


More than tokenism


Everything you need to know about NFTs


Faster fragrance How is AI making perfumers’ lives easier? Editor Julia Wray


Contributors Sarah Parsons Becky Bargh Megan Fahy


Subeditor/Contributor Austyn King Art Editor Sibylla Duffy Print & Digital Production Editor Charlotte Alldis Head of Print & Digital Production Ross Murdoch Editorial Scientific Advisor John Woodruff


HPCi Media Limited Natraj Building, The Tanneries 55 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3XG United Kingdom Tel +44 20 7193 1279 Fax +44 20 3318 5305 Email cosmeticsbusiness@hpcimedia.com


Editorial +44 20 7193 1878 juliaw@hpcimedia.com


Advertising +44 207 193 6690 trystanh@hpcimedia.com


Subscriptions +44 20 7193 1279 subscriptions@hpcimedia.com


Subscribe to Cosmetics Business hpcimedia.com/cosmetics-business each subscriber receives... Cosmetics Business magazine Cosmetics Business Trend report Pure Beauty magazine Premium content on cosmeticsbusiness.com email subscriptions@hpcimedia.com


Cosmetics Business magazine ISSN 2634-8586 (Print) is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited, Natraj Building, The Tanneries, 55 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3XG, UK. Material may be reproduced only by prior arrangement and with due acknowledgement to Cosmetics Business magazine.


©HPCi Media Limited ISSN 2634-8586 (Print)


The great resignation hits beauty


The great resignation. The big quit. Whatever your preferred term, there is little doubt that recent months have witnessed a spike in mid-career employees across all sectors handing in their door passes and walking off into the sunset.


Much discussion about this 2021 phenomenon has surrounded the potential driving forces: is this glut of resignations the result of employees having delayed job swaps during the worst of the pandemic? Have they simply reached ‘breaking point’ following months of inflated workloads? And articles about best practices to retain valued staff abound.


But it seems itchy feet syndrome has now reached the upper echelons of the beauty industry. Cosmetic multinational Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) is the most recent powerhouse to announce seismic changes in its executive team. Mark Loomis, currently President of ELC’s Asia/Pacific region, will become its North American President upon the exit of current incumbent Chris Good, who will step down in February next year. Loomis’ exit from the Asia/Pacific team will be followed by reshuffles in that division too. Coty, meanwhile, is welcoming fresh blood having poached Senior VP of Shiseido’s American Innovation Center, Shimei Fan, to become Coty’s Chief Scientific Officer. Fan’s hire adds to Coty’s growing number of women in top level positions.


Of course, while such movement within companies and between beauty’s big players provides fertile ground for innovation and an injection of new ideas, there’s always the risk of losing top talent to other industries, and this was the case for Kiko Milano in November, as CEO Cristina Scocchia quit the business to take up a position with Italian coffee firm Illy as Chief Executive.


Printed by Stephens & George Print Group


The paper used in this magazine is obtained from manufacturers who operate within internationally recognised standards. The paper is sourced from sustainable, properly managed forestation.


Whether the big quit equals big opportunities or big losses remains to be seen.


Julia Wray, Editor COSMETICS BUSINESS cosmeticsbusiness.com December 2021 3


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68