FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS
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We can deliver to you the samples in record speed, 72 hours or so, and we can deliver the finished products in six to seven days
“This is cultural,” he continues, “and we have 50 years of data to understand that.”
In addition to leveraging regional and cultural consumer insight, Scentmate streamlines the communication process in order to get samples into clients’ hands, says Álvarez-Prieto. “Someone can voice their idea, their thinking and actually create a brief and obtain references... in minutes, and that is huge,” he explains. “We can deliver to you the samples in record speed, 72 hours or so, and we can deliver the finished products in six to seven days.”
Registered and approved Scentmate clients can use the platform to specify their project by category (eg, air care, hand sanitiser, etc), formulation base (paraffin or soy wax, in the case of candles, for example), target geography, target gender and age, finished product price range, preferred fragrance dosage and regulatory requirements (including popular claims in the geographies specified), with the option of in-depth information pop-ups for less experienced clients. Users are then asked to classify their fragrance concept by colour, emotion and preferred olfactory notes, to obtain a selection of algorithm-suggested concepts drawn from thousands of options. Each named concept features visuals and descriptions, with a suggested olfactory pyramid and a deep dive into the origin stories of any ‘hero ingredients’, which can be utilised by brands for marketing purposes.
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Samples, Álvarez-Prieto explains, can be ordered both as a fragrance and incorporated into an example finished formula. When asked about the platform’s impact on perfumers, Álvarez-Prieto tells Cosmetics Business: “We have dictated perfumers for Scentmate, who work full time for Scentmate. And we also have perfumers from Firmenich that collaborate with Scentmate on creations and on algorithms. So it’s a thrilling experience for the entire Firmenich group. Scentmate is a whole transformation, not just for the company, but for the industry.”
INPUT & OUTPUT IFF’s Montet provides one caveat: that AI is only as good as what it is ‘fed’, pointing to the adage “garbage in, garbage out”.
“AI is like a kid: you feed him with knowledge and he will learn. That’s why, at IFF, we have these deep programmes feeding AI with data, which is where a specific, dedicated programme feeds AI with new [fragrance] ingredients [information]. If you update new ingredients, you might get something that opens you up to new things.” As for the perfume creator’s experience, Karagueuzoglou summarises: “For me, it’s super interesting to grow with these tools. It’s augmenting our capacity to seem different in a world that is changing fast. So yeah, we are happy to play with it!”
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