INGREDIENTS DELIVERY SYSTEMS
how SmartLipids enhance the penetration of actives into the skin, offering increased bioavailability. Cyclosystem Complex from Rahn entails the encapsulation of active ingredients in cyclodextrins obtained from enzymatic digestion of starch. Sugar molecules in a cyclic system build a small cylinder with a hydrophilic external surface and a non-polar inner cavity that encapsulates the active. The encapsulated active ingredient is more stable and well protected and, due to an osmosis-like mechanism, a concentration dependent release of actives occurs because there is always an equilibrium between free and bound active ingredient molecules. If a free molecule of active is absorbed from skin, the equilibrium shifts towards the right and bound molecules of active will be released.
As an example of this delivery system, a 5.5% active DHA system was used to provide an artificial tan to skin. Without the inclusion of Cyclosystem Complex the tan began after four hours, finished developing after 48 and persisted for 15 days. When a Cyclosystem Complex with 5.5% DHA was applied, tanning began after six hours, finished developing after 60 hours and persisted for 20 days. In addition, the colour was more uniform.
Salvona uses encapsulation
technology comprising a double-layered encapsulation system composed of a microsphere containing submicron spheres with an average diameter of 0.2mm each.
The sub-micron spheres contain the selected active ingredients. An example is MultiSal Lip Vantage, designed to achieve fuller, plumper and younger- looking lips.
The technology consists of a blend of encapsulated ingredients that provide immediate and long-lasting results. MultiSal Lip Vantage features a triggered release as the microspheres begin to rupture when the balm is applied and release in bursts when rubbed between the lips. The shell of the sub-micron sphere is made of a bio-adhesive polymer that modulates adhesion to the skin. The core is made up of botanical lipophilic ingredients that partition into the lip tissue, modulating the slow release of the encapsulated active ingredients over time.
Inolex suggests that the ideal delivery system will optimise the rate of delivery, control penetration depth, improve efficacy at reduced concentration,
22 December 2021
slowly to release their contents. The outer layer of the skin acts as a reservoir for the active substance ensuring a more even release profile into the deeper layers.
Lipodisq possesses both hydrophobic and hydrophilic properties, giving it a high water solubility and high load capacity profile, typically up to 25% active by dry weight.
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MultiSal Lip Vantage features a triggered release as the microspheres begin to rupture when the balm is applied and release in bursts when rubbed between the lips
reduce irritation and be compatible with desired active ingredients.
It claims that its polyester delivery system, Lexorez TL-8, provides these benefits. Additionally it is readily biodegradable and sustainably manufactured according to the 12 principles of green chemistry. Actives are solubilised into a polymeric liquid reservoir, which slows their diffusion into the stratum corneum, and their low molecular weight facilitates uniform distribution. Diffusion of actives into the epidermis is extended over time while the polymer structure prevents penetration of Lexorez TL-8 (INCI: Trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid copolymer) into the stratum corneum. The Lipodisq range from Malvern Cosmeceutics is a biodegradable delivery system specifically designed to deliver oily or lipophilic actives into the outer layer of the skin.
Its structure is based upon natural high-density lipoproteins responsible for transporting fats around the body. They are biodegradable and enzymatically break down in the skin.
Its small particle size gives it an advantage in penetrating the fatty lamellar layers of the stratum corneum. Lipodisqs then become trapped in the stratum corneum where they degrade
A wide range of cosmetic actives can be carried by Lipodisq including botanicals, fragrances, oils, esters and pharmaceutical actives – and custom- made ones are available on request. According to Salvona, procyanidin oligomers from apples have been clinically shown to promote hair growth. However, they are water soluble, which limits their ability to penetrate hair follicles, and are highly unstable. Using SalSphere technology Salvona has encapsulated procyanidin in sub-micron spheres with a diameter of 0.1-0.3mm, supplied as a water-based suspension. The result is a stable material that is easy to use. Whereas most delivery systems described here are aimed at improving penetration of the stratum corneum, that is not always ideal. Indermal has developed corneum delivery systems targeted specifically to the superficial layers of the stratum corneum for a more intense and precise effect at this level. It is used for the encapsulation of alpha hydroxy acids as they facilitate a very low pH level in the nanovesicles and practically all of the acid concentration remains unseparated until its release in the stratum corneum. This facilitates a reduction in the necessary dosage of AHA at a more physiologically acceptable pH.
The phospholipids and ceramides which compose the nanovesicle quickly repair any damage caused by the AHA, recuperating the skin barrier and notably increasing the tolerance level. For further reading and a list of phytochemicals, vegetable oils, essential oils, vitamins and mixed plant extracts together with their carrier systems refer to Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application: an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques, by S Yang, L Liu, J Han and Y Tang, published in February 2020
Author John Woodruff, Creative Developments john.woodruff@creative-
developments.co.uk
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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