DELIVERY SYSTEMS INGREDIENTS
SF from Active Concepts. It features grape-derived melatonin in a liposomal solution for enhanced activity. Melatonin can act as a scavenger of free radicals, or an activator of pathways protective against oxidative stress. Additionally, topically applied melatonin has been shown to offer strong protection against ultraviolet light-induced erythema through the suppression of oxidative damage. The liposomal incorporation of melatonin serves to enhance its stability and bioavailability in cosmetic applications. Niosomes are nonionic surfactants, such as polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers or esters formed by the self-clustering of nonionic surfactants in aqueous media. By the application of heat or physical agitation they attain a closed bilayer structure. They are biodegradable and are said to represent a more stable and less expensive alternative to liposomes. Niosomal properties, such as particle size, lamellarity, surface charge and entrapment efficiency are very important as they influence their behaviour. The vesicle forming capacity of the nonionic surfactant is largely related to its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) with low HLB value sorbitan esters and alkyl ethers being the most effective.
Both hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients may be encapsulated by niosomes, in which the former remains in the vesicular aqueous core and the latter is in the lipophilic shell. They are claimed to have low toxicity, reduced side effects, increased therapeutic effectiveness and enhanced stability. The nonionic surfactants are chemically stable against oxidation and temperature, but are physically unstable during dispersion. The Korean company BST supplies retinol encapsulated in niosome vesicles claimed to provide improved stability against heat and UV light.
Hydresia oleosomes from Botaneco are micron-sized spheres of emollient plant oils and vitamin E, surrounded by a phospholipid membrane and protein coat. Found naturally in all oil-bearing plant seeds, oleosomes serve as the natural storehouse of energy used by the seed during germination. Hydresia oleosomes consist of a 65% dispersion of oleosomes in water and deliver their contents onto the skin surface over time via gradual release for improved aesthetics in nearly all personal care applications, including alcohol hand sanitisers.
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CarriVect 8 smoothing and moisturising powdered liposomes for incorporating functional cosmetic assets into powder make-up are available from NanoVec. CarriVect 8 is made using only natural raw materials as a functional bioactive powder and maintains all the properties of the active components. NanoVec also manufactures DecoVec powdered liposomes for removing colour from hair and Lipcuat cationic vectors with high affinity for hair fibres for delivering actives to hair. Ndermal is the cosmetic ingredients division of Nanovex Biotechnologies, a Spanish biotechnological company that specialises in the development of nanosystems for the delivery of pharmacologically active ingredients. It has adapted its technology to dermo-cosmetics, creating a range of delivery systems that can protect and transport the cosmetic active ingredients to the target area, be it epidermis, stratum corneum or hair follicle, and ensure maximum preservation of their properties and increased efficiency levels.
SMART DELIVERY
Another method of targeting active component delivery is by using wax or silica beads that entrap the active ingredients. The Miyoshi Group has developed a large range of
multifunctional porous and non-porous silica beads.
Silica beads provide slip, fluidity and spreadability in both powder and liquid systems and offer soft-focus and oil absorption effects. The porous type can be used as an active carrier to facilitate the formulation of active ingredients in products and their controlled release on application.
BergaCare SmartLipids from Berg + Schmidt are described as the latest generation of lipid particle delivery systems. They comprise submicron particles of liquid and solid lipids chaotically arranged in an overall solid state at skin temperature, stabilised as an aqueous suspension.
The particles are insoluble and protect their contents from loss through oxidation. As an example, up to 86% of retinol remained after six months of storage at room temperature. The small particle size means a large surface area and enhanced adhesion to the skin, allowing prolonged release of the active from an invisible film that improves and protects the natural skin barrier. Photomicrographs illustrate
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