The Embroidery Column
Threading the needle T
hread weight is a measurement of thread thickness, the higher the number the fi ner the thread. Several factors such as the design, the fabric being used, and the desired outcome, will determine the weight of thread to use.
Different thread weights have been created to accommodate various embroidery techniques; each have distinct qualities that make them appropriate for specifi c applications. The weight of thread affects the appearance of the fi nished embroidery, thick threads will produce bold visible stitches while a thinner thread will create a more delicate, subtle effect. The majority of embroidery designs are digitised for industry standard 40 weight with the second most common being fi ner 60 weight.
Classic 12 – Rayon thread 12 weight From thick to thin:
12 weight threads are very thick and are often used to create texture for a hand- stitched look or for decorative seams, overlocking, and fringing.
30 weight is thicker than 40 and commonly used for larger surfaces areas such as jacket backs and backgrounds to save on stitches and add voluminous texture.
40 weight is the industry standard and your go to for all embellishment styles. Embroidery thread manufacturers like Madeira produce over 400 colours in this versatile weight in both rayon and polyester. Which thread type you use will be determined by the end use of the garment.
60 weight threads are fi ner making them ideal for delicate designs, fi ne details, and subtle shading, switching to a thinner thread will also improve clarity when embroidering small text.
75 weight is the thinnest embroidery thread on the market. It’s ideal for tiny lettering down to 3mm, monogramming, intricate fi ligree embroidery and sequin attachment. Think about the fabric being embroidered, these fi ner threads are best suited to sheer, lightweight fabrics like silk, organza and chiffon.
Polyneon 60 – Rayon thread 60 weight
Machine embroidery thread weights and what do they mean? Natalie Greetham, marketing manager, Madeira UK, provides an overview on thread weights…
Polyneon 75 – Polyester thread 75 weight
Classic 30 – Rayon thread 30 weight
| 46 | June 2023
Classic 40 – Rayon thread 40 weight
It’s important to note that with a change of thread weight you may also need to adjust the stitch density of your design and the tension settings on your machine, and always use the thread manufacturer’s recommended needle size for optimum results. It is perfectly acceptable to mix different thread weights within the same design, e.g., a large background area could be stitched in 30 weight to save stitches with other areas stitched in 40s and small lettering stitched in 60s. Always choose good quality thread to ensure the best results and avoid issues such as thread breaks, uneven stitching, and colour inconsistencies. Look out for certifi cations such as REACH and OEKO- TEX these will offer assurances that they are free from harmful chemicals and adhere to current safety standards.
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