WORKROOM TECHNIQUE


Before you start 01


Use Procion MX fibre-reactive dyes The MX designation is important: it means the dye is activated by cold water, with no heat required. Some Procion dyes carry the letter P, which indicates they need heat to bond properly. For sinamay work, always look for MX. Procion dyes are available from specialist textile suppliers including Dharma Trading. They are sold in larger quantities than most milliners will ever need, so look for retailers who sell smaller amounts.


02


What you need Tools


Glass jars or ceramic/plastic containers in a range of sizes


Bucket


Plastic or ceramic spoons for mixing


Full, juicy brush for painting Rubber gloves Old towels Dust mask


Materials Sinamay


Procion MX fibre-reactive dyes (fuchsia, yellow, cyan as a starting palette)


Household bleach 04 august 2026 | 71 03


Procion dyes in powder form need careful handling. The dry pigment particles can become airborne, so mix the dye before working with it and consider a dust mask when measuring out the powder. Work on a large damp towel, or outdoors if possible, to contain any spills. Once mixed with water the dye is much easier to manage – a spill is visible but can be cleaned up with bleach. Use plastic or ceramic spoons rather than wooden ones when mixing: wood absorbs the dye and will contaminate future batches. Keep a bucket of clean water nearby to rinse hands between handling jars and mixing vessels, and wear gloves throughout.


I work with what I thinks of as true primaries: fuchsia, yellow, and cyan (a turquoise blue). These three colours mix to create almost everything I need. Sinamay is unusually forgiving to dye, and this is directly linked to its open weave. Because the fibres are so spaced, the dye passes through the fabric without needing constant agitation – you do not have to keep moving it. A piece can sit crumpled in a bucket and still colour evenly. A finer weave, even one that is similarly open, would go blotchy without constant stirring.


The stiffener that most sinamay comes pre-treated with does not block the dye at all. The dye passes straight through, and the material remains easy to work with afterwards. One small caveat: sinamay will fade in prolonged direct sunlight over time, as will most dyed natural fibres. Hats stored in boxes are generally fine, but this is worth bearing in mind for pieces that will be displayed.


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