TECHNIQUES 10
12 9
Beware, this is an incorrect way of pinning It is better to use more pins in the blocking area and pull the sinamay or straw firmly, rather than leaving lumps and bumps in the hope that they will shrink. If the sinamay does shrink but lumps remain, the fabric will either crease or weaken at the finished edge, which is a critical part of the hat’s structure.
When positioning the centre of the straw hood, the button (the small X at the centre of a capeline or cone) needs to be positioned at the centre of the crown of the block. The button looks best when placed on the crown of the head. (See Issue 97 for tips on button placement on various shaped blocks.) If your straw has creases after blocking, you will need to re-soak it to ensure those creases are fully removed. Most creases can be eliminated easily, but some are more stubborn. Panné-pressing with an iron on setting 2 is effective, using a damp cloth (cotton or silk is preferable) between the iron and the straw. This prevents scorching, especially on light colours.
Tip Depending on how the sinamay, blocking net or Dior net is positioned beneath the straw, the top straw layer will mirror any folds present underneath. If you have done the work on the lining, you will have a smooth straw on top with no visible blocking lumps, bumps or creases. You can press the sinamay underneath, but thick sinamay folds will show through any straw.
11
Diagonal pulling with straws Diagonal pulling is a technique milliners use to flatten straw lumps and bumps. It may not seem intuitive, but it works. Find the diagonal line from the centre button. If you look carefully at the hood, you can usually follow a single straw thread along this line. Pull the straw from that point. You will find that any bumps, lumps or creases along that line will reduce or disappear.
The direction from which the arrows originate indicates where the straw bias lies. Where the arrow ends is where the pinning should be done. This is known as bias pinning and pulling.
66 | the hat magazine #110
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