Feather dyed with acid dye; acid dyes produce more lustre
TECHNIQUES Different weaves dyed with acid dye
Wool Dobby, dyed in the same acid dye bath with the same amount of dye (Dupont Targa). The sample on the right spent less time in the dye bath than the sample on the left
mildly acidic environment, ideally around pH 4, which can easily be achieved with household vinegar or citric acid. Heat is essential for fixation. The dye
bath should reach at least 80°C, although fixation can also be achieved through steaming or microwave heating. Acid dyes are renowned for producing exceptionally brilliant colours on silk and wool. The great advantage of both fibre-reactive and acid dye systems over all-purpose dyes is control. Because these dyes are developed specifically for particular fibre groups, colour outcomes are much more predictable.
In addition, the dye is absorbed far
more efficiently. In a properly executed dye process, virtually no dye remains in the bath. This process is known as exhaust dyeing. The result is less waste, less rinsing, less dye entering wastewater systems and a greatly reduced risk of bleeding.
Tip
If your dye bath still contains colour, add additional materials and continue dyeing until the bath is exhausted. The resulting materials will coordinate beautifully with the original pieces.
Tip Powder or liquid?
Most fibre-reactive dyes are supplied as powders. They are economical, available in an enormous range of colours and, when stored properly, have an excellent shelf life. The Procion colour system uses standardised colour codes that are recognised across many brands. Powders are usually dissolved in water to create stock solutions, making them easier to measure and use. However, these solutions have a limited shelf life, even when refrigerated. Powder dyes should always be handled carefully. Although their toxicity is low, inhaling fine dye particles may cause serious respiratory allergies in susceptible individuals. Always wear a suitable mask. Another disadvantage is that a single stray grain of dye powder can permanently stain your materials, so clean and precise working habits are essential.
Mix powder dyes inside a cardboard box lined with newspaper. Mist the inside of the box with water using a spray bottle. The moisture traps airborne particles, reducing the risk of contamination.
Acid dyes are available in both powder and liquid form. Personally, I prefer liquid dyes. I can work with them intuitively, much like cooking – a splash of this, a little of that, guided by experience and colour
Silk/viscose velvet dyed with iDye and acid dye; on the left, only the silk backing has been dyed
august 2026 | 47
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84
