TECHNIQUES
Silk abaca dyed with iDye and acid dye; blended materials can also be dyed to create a shot effect
Feathers, silk and nylon dyed with acid dye: exactly the same dye colour
• The timing of the chemical reaction is crucial. The dye must have sufficient time to distribute evenly throughout the fibre before fixation occurs. For cellulose fibres, add the dye first and mix thoroughly before introducing the soda ash solution.
• For protein fibres, add the dye first and then gradually heat the bath while stirring.
theory. Working with powders often introduces an additional barrier. Scales, recipes and meticulous record-keeping can sometimes get in the way of simply dyeing something quickly.
Achieving solid colours
Producing an even, solid colour is more challenging than it may seem, but success is largely a matter of preparation. • Always pre-soak your materials thoroughly. Soak cellulose fibres in plain water and protein fibres in water with a small amount of vinegar.
• Use a generous dye bath. A high liquor ratio allows the material to move freely and makes stirring easier. Keep the material in constant motion.
Dye baths can also be used to create beautiful gradients using a dip-dyeing technique.
Tips
Add iodine-free table salt when dyeing cellulose fibres. Salt helps drive the dye from the bath into the fibre.
Stretch felt cloches thoroughly before dyeing. Immersion dyeing colours only the outer layers of dense felt; penetration into the interior is limited.
Dip-dyed felt using acid dye
A mottled or variegated result can also be very attractive. For this, use a low liquor ratio. Pre-soak a cloche, spin or wring it until merely damp, then compress it into a preserving jar with one or several colours of acid dye. Microwave the covered jar for three minutes at 700 watts, allow it to cool slightly and repeat. The result is a wonderfully unpredictable pattern. The same approach can be used
with Procion dyes, but in this case, the material should first be soaked in soda ash to ensure immediate fixation.
Tip
Cut straw materials such as sinamay or parasisal may fray during dyeing and rinsing. Running a quick zigzag stitch around the edges before dyeing helps keep them stable.
Fixing with Tobafix 48 | the hat magazine #110
Colour is intuition and observation: custom-dyed dupion silk alongside silk velvet
Water carries the pigments; the pattern is created through evaporation. A blended
brown dye on crumpled damp silk separates into its individual pigments
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