REPORT
Bettina Thomas
Born in France, Bettina Thomas began her career as a translator, but her lifelong love of creating soon drew her to couture and, ultimately, to couture millinery. She launched her brand in 2008 in Rome, where she was living at the time. She now works from her studio in South Africa, creating exclusive, one-of-a- kind couture pieces.
www.bettinathomas.com
South African splendour
Bettina Thomas is a couture milliner originally from Amiens in northern France, now based near Cape Town in South Africa. In a country with eleven official languages and no fewer than nine ethnic groups within the black community alone, there are many different mourning customs. When Bettina first attended a ‘black’ funeral in South Africa, she was struck by how enormous the occasion was. In sub- Saharan Africa, funerals are massive events, particularly in black Christian communities. Lasting up to three days, they are followed a year later by a second ceremony for unveiling the tombstone. Funerals may bring together hundreds or even thousands of people, with friends and family travelling from all over the country and doing their utmost to be present. The event is considered a significant milestone in life, even more important than a wedding. Churches play a major role in these celebrations. Attendees at the funeral will be dressed to the nines, predominantly
56 | the hat magazine #110
In sub-Saharan Africa, funerals are massive
events. Hats are an important part of the outfit and can be chic, impressive or almost festive
in black, or black with white accents. Hats are an important part of the outfit and can be chic, impressive or almost festive. To allow relatives time to travel, the funeral will be held no earlier than two weeks after the death, which gives Bettina enough time to finish bespoke orders. She specialises in model millinery, and clients who come to her for a mourning hat are looking for sophisticated styles with a ‘European’ touch. Bettina is accustomed to conducting Zoom consultations with her customers, a practice she adopted from the outset, as she lives in a rural area. “It is important to build a trusting relationship with my clients; a hat for
a significant occasion is such a personal item. The right outfit with the right hat can be quite empowering!” She thinks of her hats not just as accessories, but regards them as wearable art. From a European perspective, these sculptural headpieces might be considered rather over the top for a funeral, but in South Africa they are in no way seen as a lack of respect,” she says.
Funeral hats will often be made from
shiny materials – the shinier, the better. Bettina wasn’t used to working with sequins before she came to Africa, but now she frequently incorporates them into her designs. “My clients often give me carte blanche to create something really special for them. South African businesswomen are not afraid to spend money on an outfit – quite the contrary.” For those on a more limited budget, she also offers a hiring service. “Whatever their means, the effort made by funeral attendees will be appreciated by the family,” she says. “The sense of community, respect for elders and family bonds have remained much stronger here than in Europe. Dressing your very best for a funeral is a sign of respect, almost a gift to the deceased.”
Sources
• Anna Ben-Yùsuf: The Bravery of a Migrant Mother, New York Almanack – February 16, 2022 by Jaap Harskamp
• Mourning Dress, A Costume and Social History by Lou Taylor
• Rites of Passage, Death & Mourning in Victorian Britain by Judith Flanders
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