TECHNIQUES
How to block your hat Tools
- Pointed teardrop-shaped block - Utility tool pack of sewing supplies - Iron
Materials
How to store your materials When purchasing fabrics, please ensure that by-the-yard fabrics are rolled, and that capeline and cone hoods are not folded. One mistake that even experienced milliners make is steaming the straw hood when it has been folded. This can set folds and creases in place, either from years of being stored folded, or from being sold that way. This can still be remedied using the following techniques. As stated in Issue 93, the best and only way to ensure all creases are removed from a straw hood is by fully submerging it in water. Remember, it was woven with water – so why wouldn’t you return the fabric to its original state before blocking? Creases and folds will not come out with steaming alone!
- Paris sisal straw cone - Straw stiffener - 30cm square sinamay (2x) - Cotton or silk pressing cloth
Methodology Order of blocking
- Cut squares - Place the block on the sinamay, aligning with north, south, east and west
- Pull and pin the straight parts of the sinamay
- Pull the 4 corners and pin whilst pulling
Using the correct pins for the job This is a contentious subject. There are those who use push pins and the die-hard purists who use straight pins with a thimble. I think students and beginners are deterred from using straight household pins because of breakages; however, try to persevere. The finish is so much better.
N Front
W
Over left ear
E
Over right ear
S Back Pins Pull Pull
The direction of the pull and the pinning of the fabric should be done with the pin head sitting away from the fabric, towards the cut edge.
Blocking the interfacing lining Hats sometimes need stretching. The way you lay your fabric will affect how it stretches. When finding the bias on a square piece of fabric, ensure all four corner points are layered in the same way. Pull the fabric over the block North, South, East and West – this is the direction in which you should always pull. The bias should be positioned as follows: • North = over the forehead • South = over the back of the largest part of the head
• East and West = over the areas that will stretch without distorting
64 | the hat magazine #110
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