TECHNIQUES


Blocking by Denise Innes-Spencer


A deep dive into what can go wrong with your blocking and how to make it better, or how to achieve the couture look with your sinamay and straw. This article will show you tips and tricks to enhance your smooth blocking and pinning and avoid lumps and bumps. You will learn how to neaten the way you work with precision blocking, so you don’t have to iron/panné your blocked bases.


How to block your fabrics to make them smooth and flat, with no tiny bumps or lumps along the head-fitting edge? The problems I see sometimes when looking at finished hats, are ones that could be fixed right at the blocking stage. After all the pressing and stiffening, there are still lumps and bumps that could have been avoided with better pinning or blocking technique. Some tips and tricks are explained here.


To start: cover your blocks properly. We have covered this before, so please see Issue 97 for instructions. If you are stiffening the straw, use cling film and foil on the block. Line the base with a fixed lining. I recommend this for the longevity of the hat. You can line the crown with sinamay or a supportive fabric. Not only is it best for the hat’s durability, it also saves time and money.


Linings that can be used for straw-based fabrics • Sinamay (see: Issue 88) • Blocking net/cotton (see: Issue 88) • Dior net (see: Issue 107) • Abaca cloth (see: Issue 93) • Organza – cotton works well, silk can also be used (TBC) • Netting/Tulle (TBC)


your hat properly


august 2026 | 63


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