TECHNIQUES
Tobasign on Tinalak (left) and Alter Ego (right)
Surface decoration
Reactive dyes can also be used for painting. Many people are familiar with hand-painted silk. Acid dyes can be applied in a watercolour technique or thickened for brush painting. After drying, the work must be steam-fixed. On felt, however, acid dyes are less suitable for crisp painted details because achieving strong colour saturation is difficult. For this purpose, textile paints such as Dye-Na-Flow work very well.
They behave much like dyes and leave minimal residue. Heat fixation with an iron is required. Cellulose fibres can be painted using
thickened Procion dyes containing soda ash. Because the soda initiates the reaction immediately, the mixture must be used straight away. Commercial liquid alternatives are also available. These can often be mixed together and remain stable in the bottle. Once completely dry, they are fixed using an alkaline fixing gel. Take care when working with strongly alkaline fixatives. If they dry out, they can become extremely hard and impossible to remove. Because these products are highly alkaline and potentially corrosive, they should be diluted thoroughly and, if necessary, neutralised with a little vinegar before disposal. For small projects, only a tiny amount of fixative is required. As long as it is kept off the skin, it can be used safely.
Discharge Not everything works: rayon voile
completely collapses in the dye bath
All reactive dyes are transparent. Colour can therefore only be built from light to dark. If you wish to create light details on a dark background, the fabric must first be discharged. Never use household bleach. Bleach damages fibres. Natural materials dyed with reactive dyes can often be safely lightened using
discharge agents. These break the chemical bonds of the dye molecules without significantly damaging the fibre itself. Discharge products are available as powders that can be used in a dye bath, pastes and sprays. Heat activates the process: the longer the material is heated, the more colour is removed. After thorough rinsing, new colour can be applied. Discharge chemicals often have a strong sulphurous odour, so always ensure good ventilation or work outdoors.
Final thoughts
• Always read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
• Never use pots, spoons or measuring equipment for both dyeing and food preparation.
• Wear gloves, especially when working with acid dyes. The human body consists largely of protein – and protein dyes remarkably well.
• Dyeing is simultaneously simple and complex. Do not become too dependent on swatches, formulas and precise measurements. Trust your observations. Every material behaves differently, and colour is always contextual.
• The same shade of red will look different beside pink than it will beside green. It changes in bright sunlight, and changes again by candlelight.
• Experiment, observe and enjoy the process.
Discharged polka dots on linen faux fur
Discharged rayon ribbon; due to insufficient rinsing, the red has bled into the white
august 2026 | 49
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