4 Hours in... I 69
Doufuchi Hutong
DRUM TOWER BELL TOWER
Gulou East St
Qinlao Hutong
LOTUS BLUE
Yu'er Hutong PASS BY BAR Di'anmen East St Doufuchi Hutong
Northern Sea BEIHAI PARK Jingshan Back St
QIONGDAO ISLAND
Jingshan Front St Wenjin St
views. (Lotus Blue, Lotus Market, West Dianmen Street, Shichahai Lake; tel +86 10 6617 2599;
lotusbluebar.com).
DRUM TOWERS Cross the lower lake (Shichahai) to the east side via a short, ancient bridge, then turn left and wander northeast past souvenir and snack stalls to the main road. Look left and the huge Drum Tower will confront you. Constructed in 1272 during the reign of Kublai Khan, its drums rang out to mark the hours of the day. These days a short but impressive drum performance is held on the half-hour every day. A short distance to the north is the thinner Bell Tower, whose giant bronze bell dates to the Ming dynasty. The climb up both towers is steep and hard, but their galleries are fascinating and the views are tremendous. (Open 9am-5pm; combined ticket for both towers RMB30/US$4.50.)
4
businesstraveller.com BELL AND
east-west running streets lined by traditional courtyard dwellings that first appeared during the Yuan dynasty more than 700 years ago. Today they are rapidly disappearing as modernisation sweeps the city, but happily tourist interest in hutong life may be its saviour. From the Bell and Drum Towers, simply start walking east and south, turning left or right as the mood takes you, and soon you’ll be immersed in narrow, quiet streets where daily life spills out and a sense of close community still holds sway. Pedicab tours are easier on your feet, or hire a bicycle to cover more ground. Many courtyard buildings have been turned into bar-restaurants – for craft beers and great food, including the “hutong pizza”, a popular local street food sprinkled with barbecued lamb, try the Pass By Bar (108 Nanluoguoxiang, Dongcheng district, tel +86 10 8403 8004). n
5 NOVEMBER 2016
HUTONG HIATUS Beijing once boasted more than 6,000 hutong, or alleyways, the narrow
Jiaodaokou South St
Di'anmen Inner St
Gulou West St
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