ASIA PACIFIC & INDIAN OCEAN pJAPAN
FROM ROBOTS TO RICE —
—
Japan offers a plethora of rural experiences beyond its frenetic cities, as Sophie Griffiths discovers on an off-the-beaten-track trip
T
here is an odd movement in the undergrowth. Eight legs slowly creep out from under the long grass, and
a bulbous black-and-yellow body emerges. A self-confessed arachnophobe, I would normally be terrified; instead I’m mesmerised – they don’t make spiders like this at home. Watching this wasp spider is also giving me a
handy respite from my rice harvesting. Our Japanese instructor, a local farmer, comes to see what’s piqued my curiosity. “Is it harmful?” I ask. “No,” he laughs, but adds suddenly: “Don’t touch it!” We are in Matsudai, a small town in the valley of the Tokamachi region in the heart of Japan’s Niigata prefecture, a two-hour bullet train ride from Tokyo. Tree-covered mountains loom, their summits disappearing into low hanging clouds as we enjoy a fascinating agriculture lesson in a country I had wrongly perceived was more about robot cafes and technology than farming traditions. Collecting the rice is tough – we spend half an hour bent double, slicing bundles of rice grasses, which we tie together to dry out, before a machine will remove the rice pieces. With a grin, our instructor informs us our efforts have achieved a paltry single cup of rice. Rice harvesting is an activity tourists are encouraged to try to ensure the “old ways” don’t die out. Because, tour guide Nobuko explains, as the youngsters from small villages such as Matsudai are enticed away to the big cities, there is a concern that local traditions could be lost. It’s also a way of attracting
visitors to the region during the non-ski months – and offers a far more authentic experience than the
big hotels of Japan’s big cities. The previous
night we stay in the mountain village (and winter ski resort) of Yuzawa in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, complete with tatami-matted rooms and communal baths. There are even various kimonos to choose for our dinner attire.
The next day, we take a two-hour bus ride to Matsudai to enjoy another cultural offering – art. The Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennial is an
international modern art festival held every three years in the Niigata prefecture. It features almost 200 pieces spread across the region, from sculptures – including some by the famous Japanese dot artist Yayoi Kusama – to uniquely designed houses such as The House of Light in the town of Ueno, created by artist James Turrell, complete with sliding ceiling that exposes overnight guests to the sky above. From Matsudai, we travel north on a scenic bus ride that winds in and out of the clouds. We’re headed for one of the region’s most impressive displays – a once abandoned mountain tunnel, now transformed to feature various look-out points on to Japan’s famous Kiyotsu Gorge, each one displaying different art pieces. The tranquillity of the gorge feels a million miles
away from Tokyo’s chaos. But within just two hours we are back in the illuminated streets of Japan’s capital, armed with memories more impressive than a robot cafe – and a whole new appreciation of rice we’re unlikely to forget in a hurry.
Visit Japan National Tourism Organization on stand AS800
05.11.2019 WTM OFFICIAL EVENT DAILY 73
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