WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Analiese Gregory’s potato galette with truffle This is one of my all-time favourite potato dishes, enhanced with shaved black truffle. SERVES: 4 TAKES: 1 HR 30 MINS
INGREDIENTS 125g clarified butter 7 medium waxy potatoes (around 900g), scrubbed and sliced to a thickness of 2mm (use a mandoline if you have one)
olive oil, for drizzling freshly shaved black truffle, to serve creme fraiche, to serve
METHOD Heat the oven to 180C, 160C
fan, gas 4. Line a 22cm pan with baking paper. Melt the clarified butter in a
Analiese Gregory shaves
truffle over a galette of locally grown Neptune potatoes
small saucepan. Toss the potatoes in a bowl with the butter and 2 tsp salt until completely coated. Starting in the centre of the
preserved summer abundance and the earthy flavours of winter. From here, it’s a 20-minute drive along
winding country roads bordered by lush paddocks and towering karri trees to Pemberton. Like Manjimup, it was once heavily reliant on logging, but now tourism and agriculture are the economic mainstays. The journey between the two towns is lengthened by stops at the many honesty stalls along the way. Midway to Pemberton, Rick Scoones of Warren Grange grows heritage tomatoes, garlic and even the odd Carolina Reaper chilli, but it’s his ‘funky pumpkins’ that have made his name — he produces everything from delicata squash to marina di chioggia and warty galeux d’eysines — all of which are sold at his farm-gate stall. Lisa Cudby uses Warren Grange ingredients
at Wild at Heart, the cafe and providore she opened in Pemberton last year. Her rustic dishes draw on the best of the regional; a seasonal soup of cauliflower, apple and truffle is a hit, but it’s the mashed Prince of Orange potato, kale and courgette, paired with pork and sage sausages, that wins my heart. It also contains truffle, of course, a dash of local cream and homemade butter, says Lisa. Her culinary journey was serendipitous.
“There’s a French film, Haute Cuisine,” she tells me. “About a chef who cooks for the president of France. The very last line she says is, ‘I’m moving to New Zealand to grow truffles.’”
This was enough for Lisa and her husband
Mick to be spurred into research. Within a week, they decided to uproot from Brisbane to chase the thought that they had “one last something” in them. That something is more than Wild at Heart — it’s also a farm just outside town, where they’re planning to ramp up vegetable production and already have an orchard of 3,000 inoculated trees, which produced their first truffles last year.
PERFECT MATCH You won’t find a website for Batista Estate, or an email. Winemaker Bob Peruch only recently swapped his landline for a mobile. He’s happy with the slow pace of life in the Warren Valley, albeit one that revolves around his 10-acre vineyard and growing and making his own food: salami hangs in the winery shed, the hand-built pizza oven is well used. From his kitchen table, Bob can see across
the whole property, which was mostly cleared by his father, a migrant from Northern Italy, back in the 1930s. A patchwork of nationalities have arrived here over the years — among them Brits, Italians, Macedonians and Croats — and Bob has a theory that where they settled was about where they came from. Northern Italians and Macedonians were drawn to the hills and forests, while Southern Italians headed to the flatter areas. Bob talks of his father growing tobacco, and when that failed, getting into dairy, then potatoes and fruit trees.
pan, lay the potatoes in concentric circles, with each new slice overlapping the previous one by about two-thirds. This is your presentation layer, so you want to make it as tidy as possible. Continue to layer the overlapping potatoes until the pan is full and you’ve used all the potatoes. Lay another square of baking
paper on top, followed by a small round tray, an ovenproof plate or the lid of a pot to add a bit of weight for pressing down the galette. Cook in the oven for 1 hr, or until a skewer inserted into the centre meets no resistance. Once cooked, colour up the
base on the stove or under the grill: to colour on the stove, place the pan over a low heat, checking periodically; to colour under the grill, turn out the galette, then invert it back into the pan, drizzle with olive oil and place under the grill until coloured. Top generously with shaved
black truffle and serve immediately with the creme fraiche on the side. Alternatively, if serving the next day, skip the colouring step, place a small weight on top and leave in the fridge overnight. When ready to eat, turn it out, cut into portions and colour the top in a high-heat oven or in a pan.
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL
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