FOOD TRAILS
SAMPLE THE ‘SASHIMI ’ OF SOUTHERN ITALY
FJÄLLBACKA
LYCKORNA GOTHENBURG
LYSEKIL
TAKE A SEAFOOD SAFARI ON THE SWEDISH COAST
Any seafood tour of Sweden’s west coast should begin in Gothenburg. This laid-back Scandi port city serves its seafood with a side order of industrial chic — graffitied waterfront warehouse cafes contrast with the linen- tablecloth restaurants lining the city centre’s wide neoclassical boulevards. Begin at church: Feskekôrka (‘fish church’) on the Rosenlunds canal is home to a wet market and seafood restaurants set under 19th-century vaulted gothic ceilings. The smoked salmon, in particular, is not to be missed. Shrimp-topped smörgås (open sandwiches), along with fishy cheffy offerings dominate menus city-wide but book ahead for six-seater Hoze (
hozerestaurant.com), the current hot ticket restaurant, serving sashimi made almost entirely with the local catch. And what a catch: West Sweden is Big Five country — a reference to the
langoustine, lobster, oyster, shrimp and mussels that can be foraged, caught and cooked on a number of organised foodie safaris that take in the snaking, ford-feathered coastline and rocky islands north and south of Gothenburg, which can be reached within a few hours. And with such a broad selection of delicacies on offer, it’s worth timing your visit according to your preferences. August is one long crayfish festival, when locals feast on these fiddly, dill- soused crustaceans; autumn (late September) is lobster season on the wind- blown islands and skerries of the beautiful Bohuslän coast, stretching some 100 miles towards the Norwegian border; and springtime sees the finest Nordic oysters speed-shucked in the Bohuslän towns of Lysekil and Grebbestad.
GETTING STARTED: Head north from Gothenburg to Lyckorna, where fisherman host Janne Bark will motor you out into a protected North Sea channel to search for mussels to cook on the decked terrace of his Mussel Bar (
musselbaren.se), set in the seaside resort’s old clock tower. Further north west, in the wilds of Bohuslän, where little red cottages crown islands of their own, take an oyster tour of Lysekil aboard the Strandflickorna hotel’s vintage fishing boat (
strandflickorna.com). An hour further north brings you to Fjällbacka, where you can join a lobster fishing safari before tucking into a five-course fishy supper at Stora Hotel (
shfallbacka.se/en). DON’T MISS: Salt & Sill (
saltosill.se), just south of Gothenburg, can be credited with putting the region on the foodie map when it opened its restaurant on the west coast island of Klädesholmen back in 1999. Now complete with wood cabin hotel accommodation and a floating sauna, it still serves some of the best sill (herring) you’ll find, in a spectacular Scandinavian seaside setting. DON’T FORGET THE SEAWEED: Go foraging for this sea vegetable on a guided kayak tour with Catxalot (
catxalot.se), a food adventures company based in Grebbestad. SB
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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL
You don’t have to go as far as Japan to immerse yourself in a raw seafood culture. Across the Southern Italian region of Puglia, seafood and shellfish have been consumed straight from the sea for centuries, with little more than a squeeze of lemon added. Crudo (‘raw’) culture might sound like a new health food fad, but it has its origins in cucina povera — Southern Italy’s peasant cuisine, which focuses on simple ingredients. Ricci di mare (sea urchins) are the cuisine’s spiky emblem; plucked (with care) from rocky shores across Puglia, Calabria and Sicily, their umami-buttery insides ideally eaten instantly. But across Puglia you’ll also find octopus, cuttlefish, mussels, scallops, razor clams, oysters, squid, anchovies, red mullet, prawns, and lobster served just-caught at markets, stalls and simple restaurants.
GETTING STARTED: Bari is considered the crudo capital, its historic port and lungomare boardwalk the place to see catch landed then shuttled across the road to sea-view shacks. DON’T MISS: In the bay town of Polignano a Mare in Puglia, make for Antiche Mura (
ristoranteantichemura.it), a cave-like restaurant serving a seasonal menu of raw food. SB
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