REVIEWS


EAT & STAY CARY ARMS & SPA TORQUAY, DEVON • CARYARMS.CO.UK


SEAFOOD AND SEA VIEWS ARE THE STARS OF THE SHOW AT THIS SMART INN ON ENGLAND’S SOUTH COAST


“You never regret ordering sticky toffee pudding,” my friend says sagely, when I question whether there’s time for dessert. It’s a persuasive statement, and when the dish arrives, she’s right. The date sponge is moist but light, the butterscotch sauce has a whisper of salt, and the whole thing is crowned by a sphere of honeycomb ice cream and a roundel of cinder toffee. It’s so rich I wouldn’t be able to eat it alone, but shared, it’s nigh-on perfect. It helps that it’s ideal sticky toffee pudding


weather (a high-budget production of The Tempest appears to be taking place outside) and also that the Cary Arms seems built for food like this. The main building, a 19th-century inn, is all low beams, stone walls and wood- burning fires — perfect not only for comforting puddings but also for Sunday lunches of beautifully cooked beef and crispy roasties. The food isn’t flawless — over the course of


two meals there are a few minor missteps, such as slightly overcooked lamb, under-seasoning and a grainy white chocolate disc underneath an otherwise superb clotted cream panna cotta. Yet, there’s a great deal to enjoy. Being right on the coast, at Torquay’s Babbacombe Bay, the seafood is very good. Scallops, served


with chorizo and a pea puree, are perfectly caramelised; the sea bass is tender, its skin crisp. And the accompanying seasonal veg is so vibrant and crunchy I order extra. Set into a hillside overlooking the beach, the


Cary Arms makes the most of its location. The conservatory dining room has sea views, as does the outdoor pool, and if the weather turns there are worse spots from which to watch the waves than the spa’s indoor hydrotherapy pool. Accommodation is in a mix of double rooms,


suites and self-contained cottages; our home for the weekend, Cove Cottage, sleeps six. The interiors are more holiday rental than hotel, with a mishmash of furniture and styles that range from the nautical (white wood panelling) to the grand (chandeliers, gilt picture frames), with numerous photos of the owners’ family dotted about. If you don’t call dibs on the best room, which has its own terrace, you can admire the same sea views from the sloping garden, or the patio. Once we settle into our loungers on the lawn, only the approaching tempest — and the promise of a good dessert — can draw us inside. Luxury sea-view doubles from £245, B&B; Cove Cottage from £450, self-catering. The writer visited in June 2021. Nicola Trup


Three more: South Devon restaurants


ROCKFISH, DARTMOUTH Mitch Tonks’ seafood chain has several branches on the south coast, but the Dartmouth outpost is the original. Fresh catch, including scallops and sea bream, comes with unlimited chips. therockfish.co.uk


MICKEYS, EXMOUTH This new beach bar and restaurant from chef Michael Caines has sea views and a seasonal menu; expect dishes such as curried monkfish. mickeysbeach.co.uk


THE ELEPHANT, TORQUAY Overlooking Torquay harbour, Michelin-starred The Elephant serves delicate plates such as dry-aged Devon beef fillet with truffled pomme puree. elephantrestaurant.co.uk


NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL


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IMAGE: ORIGINAL IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY


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