STARTERS
Do you have a recipe for pozole? Margarita Carrillo Arronte: Pozole, a soup of nixtamalised corn kernels, is to Mexico what minestrone is to Italy or borscht is to Russia. This hearty, warming meal is usually made with pork, garlic and mild dried chillies and topped with garnishes such as cabbage, radish, avocado and crisp tortilla pieces. This recipe is for Jalisco-style red pozole. SERVES: 6 TAKES: 1 HR 45 MINS
INGREDIENTS 6 ancho chillies, deseeded
Where can I find the best coffeehouses in Vienna? Astrid Hofer: Coffeehouses are an integral part of social life in the Austrian capital — places to catch up with friends, read the paper or study. They’ve been around for over 300 years and became intellectual and creative hubs in the late 19th century, with Gustav Klimt and Sigmund Freud among their regulars. Today, there are roughly 1,000 of them around the city; in 2011, Viennese coffee house culture was added to UNESCO’s National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Classic orders include Sachertorte, a chocolate cake with apricot filling and chocolate icing, or a melange, the Viennese equivalent of a cappuccino. Opened in 1876, Café Central
(pictured) is one of the best-known coffeeshops. Located inside Palais Ferstel, it has a huge cake selection plus dishes such as the classic Viennese breakfast (rolls with jam and honey, coffee and a boiled egg) and schnitzel. Visit in the morning to avoid crowds. Equally popular is nearby Café Hawelka. The late founders, Leopold and Josefine Hawelka, worked there well into their 90s and Josefine was famous for her buchteln (yeast buns served with vanilla sauce). Luckily, she passed on the recipe to her children, who run the place today. Café Diglas, on Wollzeile, welcomed no less than Emperor Franz Joseph I as its very first guest back in 1923. Its speciality is scheiterhaufen, a bread pudding with chocolate and nuts. Once you’ve ticked off the
traditional cafes, try Vollpension. With its vintage furniture, floral porcelain and family portraits, it could easily pass for a grandparents’ living room. Many staff are retirees and bake their family recipes.
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL 29
2 tsp dried oregano 1 bulb garlic 1 small white onion 10 bay leaves 500g pork loin 500g pig’s head (or pork knuckle or shoulder)
2 pigs’ legs, cleaned and quartered
1 kg hominy
TO SERVE 12 lemons, quartered dried oregano, to taste piquin chilli (or other red chilli), finely chopped, to taste
1 red onion, finely chopped
½ lettuce, finely shredded
12 radishes, sliced
METHOD Put the chillies in a bowl with enough hot
water to cover them. Leave to soak for 15 mins. Tip the chillies and their soaking liquid into
a food processor, add 1 tsp of the oregano and blitz until smooth. Strain into a frying pan and cook on a medium heat for 15 mins. Set aside. Put the garlic, onion, bay leaves, remaining
oregano and a pinch of salt into a large pan and cover with water. Simmer for 30 mins. Meanwhile, put all the meat in a large pan,
add enough water to cover and bring to a boil over a medium heat. Boil for 45 mins, or until soft. Scoop out the meat, reserving the cooking liquid. Shred the pork loin or leg and cut the meat from the head into bite-size cubes, then set aside. Tip the hominy and the meat’s cooking
liquid into the stock and cook for 30 mins. Add the chilli paste and check the seasoning. Discard the onion, garlic and bay leaves. Divide the meat and hominy mix between
six bowls. Serve with the lemon wedges, oregano, chilli, onion, lettuce and radishes. Taken from Mexico: The Cookbook, by Margarita Carrillo Arronte (£35, Phaidon)
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