IMAGES: CLAIR IRWIN; ANDREW SHERIDAN; ISSY CROKER
REVIEWS
CAIL BRUICH GLASGOW •
CAILBRUICH.CO.UK
Unlike many fi ne dining chefs, Lorna McNee doesn’t have a signature dish. The fi rst woman in Scotland to have led a restaurant to Michelin-star status, she’s more concerned with storytelling and seasonality. After my meal, she tells me she sees what’s on a plate in terms of form and colour. At McNee’s restaurant, Cail Bruich, in
Glasgow’s West End, a humble hen of the woods mushroom is reborn as a jellied sphere, layered with black garlic, Wye Valley asparagus, madeira and summer truffl e. A green tomato accompanies a pyramid of West Coast crab, elderfl ower and Exmoor caviar. The Cashel Blue cheese tart is an artwork of apple slivers.
TAVOLINO LONDON •
TAVOLINO.CO.UK
With restaurants, we all know what matters: the food; the service; the bill. But sitting here in the shadow of The Shard, staring idly across the river at Tower Bridge, I wouldn’t care if I were served toast on a dustbin lid for £45 a slice. For it’s still spring when I visit Tavolino,
and, having been starved of sights during lockdown, its new terrace holds an obvious appeal. And yes, it is a little chilly, although we’re off ered stylish ponchos to keep us warm. And yes, we do cast longing looks at the cosy- looking booths inside — but they’ll keep. Because now things have opened up, I intend
to return to further explore this succinct menu full of well-executed dishes. For my visit, there’s
ABOUT 8 BIRMINGHAM •
ABOUT8.CO.UK
There aren’t many meals that open with a cryptic two-minute fi lm showing. But About 8 — an ‘immersive dining experience’ from chef Andrew Sheridan — is mysterious from start to fi nish, from the swirling smoke on the website to the futuristic dining room. Launched just three weeks before last
November’s lockdown, About 8 has already made waves, gaining a mention in the 2021 Michelin guide and bringing to life what Sheridan has described as his ‘whole career in eight courses’. Each course tells a story from his life and is only explained once it’s set down in front of you, illuminated by spotlights. The dishes are as delicious as they are
clever. From V8, based on the juice of the same name, to a version of After Eight mints, each
is intricately constructed and explained by Sheridan as it’s fi nished off in front of you. Among the highlights is Lucky 8, a fat-laden combination of treacle bread, lardo, cheese and pickle, inspired by the bacon sandwiches of Sheridan’s childhood. Resurrection is a decadent piece of A5 Wagyu beef with pickled onion and truffl e, while dessert includes a take on a simple lemon drizzle cake. You could argue that creating a restaurant
concept based solely on yourself is rather self- indulgent. But when that results in something superlative, challenging, interesting and entertaining, does it really matter? Eight- course tasting menu £88. Drinks pairing £64 per person. The writer visited in July 2021. Ellen Manning
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL 123
a Sicilian theme, and in the battle of starters, the smoked duck ham is just edged by the beautifully tamed anchovies. The ’nduja-glazed chicken breast, mascarpone, olives and hot red pepper sauce that follows is rich, tangy and well balanced for a dish with so many headline acts, while the signature silk handkerchief pasta is pleasant enough, as it wallows in walnut butter, but is deliciously transformed once the Burford Brown egg yolk begins to ooze over it. Throw in a moreish chocolate-and-chestnut
mousse and very decent cocktails, and you’ve got a meal befi tting of the setting. Three courses with wine around £40. The writer visited in May 2021. Glen Mutel
A Michelin star is not new to Glasgow. The
late Andrew Fairlie — as it happens, McNee’s former mentor — was among the previous recipients of that particular badge of honour. But until January this year, it had been 18 years since the city had been awarded one. Cail Bruich received its accolade just fi ve months after McNee took charge, and rightfully so. My roast Skye langoustine bisque with ponzu
and a rectangle of roe deer with foie gras and spiced fruit are incredible. This is the best restaurant Glasgow has ever had, and hopefully a sign of things to come. Nine-course chef’s tasting menu £105; wine pairing £90 a head. The writer visited in July 2021. Mike MacEacheran
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