DUBAI
pastrami reuben. “It takes 14 days to create that sandwich, reflecting our commitment,” he says. With culinary inspiration drawn from such varied sources as his Egyptian mother’s kitchen and an apprenticeship at a Texan smokehouse, Hattem refers to his barbecue as “third-culture cuisine”.
timeoutmarket.com/dubai
C U LT FAVOU R I T E K INOYA
“I’ve always loved noodles and broth, and my instinct is to recreate something I really like,” chef-restaurateur Neha Mishra tells me. I’m at Kinoya, seated at a horigotatsu, a low table with a recessed floor beneath it. The long-anticipated restaurant is an evolution of Neha’s supper club, which centred around ramen and hosted 6,000 people over the course of three years — in her living room. “I started cooking for myself; it’s how I de-stressed,” she says. “What followed wasn’t calculated in any way. Both the supper club and Kinoya are byproducts of something that I love to do.” Neha’s background is noteworthy
— particularly the fact she’s never lived in Japan. Born in India and raised between
Kenya and South Africa, she moved to Dubai at the age of 12 and has since dabbled in various cuisines. It was Japanese food, however, that aligned best with her personality. “Japanese culture is hyper-focused — once you get into any kind of discipline, it’s a rabbit hole,” she says. Neha’s legions of fans say her ramen is the
richest and most delicious in Dubai, but the restaurant is renowned for other Japanese dishes too. I select a few izakaya plates (dishes typically served in Japanese bars). The burnt butter scallops — a favourite when Neha was running the supper club — are accompanied by oyster mushrooms in a sweet-smoky sauce, while the creamy miso butter eggplant is sweet and nutty, balanced by the intense umami of bonito flakes served on the side. The almost powdery texture of the flash-fried shishamo (a fish native to Japan), meanwhile, is an acquired taste. For those who come purely for the ramen, Neha recommends the shio variety, its handmade noodles residing alongside crispy chicken and a soft-boiled egg in a multilayered broth. “Ramen is slow food fast,” she says. “It takes a really long time to cook and no time to eat.”
kinoya.ae
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Both Emirates and British Airways serve Dubai from the UK. emirates. com
ba.com
WHERE TO STAY XVA Art Hotel has doubles from AED 128 (£25) a night, room only.
xvahotel.com
Above: aerial view of Dubai’s skyline shrouded in fog
Below: kebabs on the grill at Al Ustad
HOW TO DO IT TUI offers five nights at the Hyatt Regency Dubai, room only, from £665 per person in December, including flights from Birmingham.
tui.co.uk
MORE INFO
visitdubai.com
DUBAI FAVOURITES
Al Ustad Special Kebab In the four decades it’s been open, this family- owned Iranian spot has drawn in everyone from loyal locals to Emirati royals. The kebabs are succulent (marinades include yoghurt, saffron and dried lemon) and complemented by buttery rice. Enjoy them surrounded by the old-school telephones and vintage photos on display.
alustadspecialkabab.has.restaurant
Bu Qtair It’s often said that Anthony Bourdain put Bu Qtair on the map, but this beach-shack-turned- restaurant had snaking queues long before the late chef gave it the nod. Little has changed since the ’90s; there’s still no menu — the star of the show is the catch of the day, marinated in masala and deep fried. Order flaky paratha and creamy coconut curry to go with it.
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