FOOD TRAILS
GO NUTS FOR WALNUTS IN THE DORDOGNE VALLEY
Walnut groves have flourished on the shores of the Dordogne for over a millennium with the humble nut making its way into many dishes and drinks throughout the region. When following the Route de la Noix, start near Martel at family-run walnut mill Moulin Castagne (
en.moulincastagne. com) to visit the groves and see the ancient stone grind walnuts for their oil, then have lunch at the welcoming restaurant. In the town itself, snap up walnut tarts and breads at the Boulangerie Bottero (rue Droite). In Souillac, look for walnut- based treats at the Friday-morning market, then pop into Distillerie Louis Roque (lavieilleprune. com) to admire the museum. The region’s most famous tipple is the plum liqueur La Vieille Prune, but La Vieille Noix walnut liqueur is also one for your cocktail cabinet. Most restaurants make their own walnut wine, too, so order one as an aperitif before an evening meal.
GETTING STARTED: Fly into Brive-Dordogne Valley Airport, then head south to Martel. DON’T MISS: Take a detour to Distillerie Denoix in Brive-la-Gaillard to discover its 180- year history and sip its Supreme Denoix (denoix. com) walnut liqueur. For other places to visit, see
noixduperigord.com. CB
HARVEST PRECIOUS SAFFRON IN LA MANCHA
Saffron — extracted from the flower of the saffron crocus — is one of the world’s most expensive spices. It’s grown in Iran, Italy and India (among others), but Castilla-La Mancha — the central Spanish region known for its Don Quixote landscapes — produces what’s widely regarded as the world’s best. The crimson spice, brought to Spain by the Moors in the ninth century, is a pillar of Spanish cuisine, flavouring stews, soups and, of course, paella. The best time to experience La Mancha saffron is in October, when you can join farmers in a millennium-old tradition of harvesting, plucking, toasting and packaging the spice by hand. The Saffron Museum, housed in a former convent in Madridejos, is well worth a visit, but leave time to try the local queso manchego, a sheep’s cheese that’s best savoured with a drizzle of olive oil and a glass of tempranillo.
GETTING STARTED: La Mancha’s saffron farms are spread across Toledo, Cuenca, Ciudad Real and Albacete. The easiest way to visit them during the harvest is to book a guided tour with A Taste of Spain (
atasteofspain.com) or The Spanish Touch (
thespanishtouch.com). DON’T MISS: The Fiesta de la Rosa del Azafrán (Saffron Rose Festival), held in Consuegra every October, celebrates La Mancha’s legendary spice with a weekend of folk dancing, food stalls and saffron-plucking competitions. JV
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL 51
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