DECONSTRUCT
WHERE TO EAT
From backstreet kitchens in Bangkok to highly rated restaurants in the UK, these are the top spots to try Thai green curry
BO.LAN, BANGKOK, “Chefs Dylan and Bo are disciples of Thai food and have dedicated their whole lives to it,” says chef Andy Oliver, head chef at London’s Som Saa. He rates this as one of the world’s best places for authentic Thai food. As well as serving up great food,
Bo.lan is also working towards becoming carbon- neutral.
bolan.co.th
BENJARONG, BANGKOK This high-end restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored villa. The menu occasionally veers towards molecular gastronomy, but green curry pilgrims should order the meltingly tender 72-hour slow-cooked ribs served in green curry, which have been served here ever since the menu was given a revamp a few years ago by Danish chef Morten Boejstrup Nielsen, a Thai food specialist who
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previously worked at London’s Nahm restaurant .
baandusitthani.com/ restaurants/benjarong
SANGUAN SRI , BANGKOK Sanguan Sri has been around for decades. You don’t come here for the decor — the restaurant is bright, busy and probably little changed since it opened — but instead for the food. Order small portions of everything you fancy, including chicken green curry, plus some pork with garlic and perhaps an egg sausage soup, so that you can try the maximum number of dishes. Ideal for sharing. 59/1 Witthayu Road, Pathum Wan, Bangkok
POI -SIEN (AKA PUMPKIN LADY), BANGKOK This family-run restaurant may look nondescript, but the food is reliably perfect.
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL
People make long journeys across the city to eat green curry here, even though it can be a little tricky to find — halfway down a narrow road in central Bangkok, with no signage or visible street number. It’s also famed for its stir-fried pork with basil. Ratchawithi 6 Alley, Bangkok.
KIN + DEUM, LONDON This stellar restaurant (pictured) was created by the three grown- up children of a Thai restaurateur, using one of his former venues and turning the pared- back space into a hugely successful venue. The menu ranges from lesser-known Thai dishes (bamboo soup; glass noodles and prawns; crispy tamarind eggs) to well-known curries, like the rich and creamy massaman, or the green curry with bamboo shoots and vegetables, prawns, beef or tofu.
kindeum.com
SINGBURI , LONDON When multiple Thai chefs recommend somewhere, you know the green curry is going to be good. Operated by a Thai family, this restaurant in Leytonstone, east London, isn’t just brilliant, it’s also very affordable. It’s BYO and regularly packed. Plus, everything served here, including all the curry pastes, is made from scratch.
instagram.com/ singburi_e11
DUSIT, EDINBURGH Edinburgh has the third- largest Thai population in the UK. Dusit has been part of the city’s restaurant scene since 2002, and remains so popular that you’ll almost certainly need to book. The green curry is made to a recipe developed by founder and chef Pom, who’s from Bangkok. You can try it made with roast duck, a common ingredient in
Thailand. Look out also for the zingy papaya salad, as well as larb, an umami and lime-rich chicken salad.
dusit.co.uk
BO TREE KITCHEN, BELFAST Recently set up by the original team behind Oxford’s Chiang Mai Kitchen, this restaurant is extremely good value and has received rave reviews. It provides Belfast with something it hasn’t really had until now: Thai food as served in the homeland of chef Pun Bua-In (better known as Suthat). Among the highlights are a beautifully fragrant green curry, made with fresh herbs and spices flown in from Bangkok. A separate vegetarian menu is also on offer, where instead of beef, chicken or prawns, the green curry is made with baby aubergines.
botreekitchen.com
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